An Ecological Dynamics Framework for the Acquisition of Perceptual–Motor Skills in Climbing

Uncertainty in extreme sports performance environments, like rock and ice climbing, provides considerable psycho-emotional and physiological demands which challenge the acquisition of perceptual–motor skills. An ecological dynamics theoretical framework adopts concepts and tools of nonlinear dynamics and ecological psychology to investigate and model the relationships that emerge in extreme sports between athletes and their performance environments. In this relation, the interactions of athletes with key objects, surfaces, events and significant others during a sport like climbing emerge from interdependent personal, task and environmental constraints on performance. Performance behaviours emerge through the continuous and active exploration of environmental properties by individual athletes. Properties of rock cliffs, icefalls and mountains provide a high level of uncertainty due to continuous weather-driven changes. Their unpredictability signifies that performance may be considered as an ongoing coadaptation of climber’s behaviours to dynamically changing, interacting constraints, individually perceived and encountered. In this chapter, we consider the continuous interactions between climbers and their environment to understand how they can be coached to perceive key environmental properties when climbing and adapt their behaviours towards achieving performance goals.

[1]  Lew Hardy,et al.  Effects of performance anxiety on effort and performance in rock climbing: A test of processing efficiency theory , 2004, Anxiety, stress, and coping.

[2]  K. Davids,et al.  Ecological Validity, Representative Design, and Correspondence Between Experimental Task Constraints and Behavioral Setting: Comment on Rogers, Kadar, and Costall (2005) , 2007 .

[3]  J. Gibson The Ecological Approach to Visual Perception , 1979 .

[4]  K. Newell,et al.  Metabolic energy expenditure and the regulation of movement economy , 1998 .

[5]  D. Collins,et al.  Conceptualizing the adventure-sports coach , 2012 .

[6]  X Sanchez,et al.  Efficacy of pre‐ascent climbing route visual inspection in indoor sport climbing , 2012, Scandinavian journal of medicine & science in sports.

[7]  L Seifert,et al.  Skill transfer, affordances and dexterity in different climbing environments. , 2013, Human movement science.

[8]  E. Brymer,et al.  Extreme Sports , 2009 .

[9]  K. Davids,et al.  Neurobiological Degeneracy and Affordance Perception Support Functional Intra-Individual Variability of Inter-Limb Coordination during Ice Climbing , 2014, PloS one.

[10]  Xavier Sanchez,et al.  Pre‐performance psychological states and performance in an elite climbing competition , 2009, Scandinavian journal of medicine & science in sports.

[11]  Karl M. Newell,et al.  Functions of Learning and the Acquisition of Motor Skills (With Reference to Sport) , 2012 .

[12]  Romain Hérault,et al.  INTER-LIMB COORDINATION VARIABILITY IN ICE CLIMBERS OF DIFFERENT SKILL LEVEL , 2011 .

[13]  Rob Withagen,et al.  Affordances and classification: On the significance of a sidebar in James Gibson's last book , 2012 .

[14]  F. C. Bakker,et al.  Inexperienced Sport Climbers Might Perceive and Utilize New Opportunities for Action by Merely Observing a Model , 2002, Perceptual and motor skills.

[15]  Karl M. Newell,et al.  Variability in Motor Output As Noise: A Default and Erroneous Proposition? , 2006 .

[16]  Michelle Fleury,et al.  Postural constraints modify the organization of grasping movements , 1999 .

[17]  Keith Davids,et al.  Temporal dynamics of inter-limb coordination in ice climbing revealed through change-point analysis of the geodesic mean of circular data , 2013 .

[18]  K. Davids,et al.  Representative learning design and functionality of research and practice in sport. , 2011, Journal of sport & exercise psychology.

[19]  Roger Bartlett,et al.  Movement Systems as Dynamical Systems , 2003, Sports medicine.

[20]  Sean Müller,et al.  A Model for the Transfer of Perceptual-Motor Skill Learning in Human Behaviors , 2012, Research quarterly for exercise and sport.

[21]  B. Debu,et al.  3D analysis of posturo-kinetic coordination associated with a climbing task in children and teenagers , 2003, Neuroscience Letters.

[22]  R. Emmerik,et al.  On Variability and Stability in Human Movement , 2000 .

[23]  G. Edelman,et al.  Degeneracy and complexity in biological systems , 2001, Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America.

[24]  S. Fryer Physiological and psychological contributions to on-sight rock climbing, and the haemodynamic responses to sustained and intermittent contractions , 2013 .

[25]  D. Araújo,et al.  Affordances can invite behavior: Reconsidering the relationship between affordances and agency , 2012 .

[26]  Ludovic Seifert,et al.  Key Properties of Expert Movement Systems in Sport , 2013, Sports Medicine.

[27]  A. Opstal Dynamic Patterns: The Self-Organization of Brain and Behavior , 1995 .

[28]  K. Davids,et al.  Ecological dynamics and motor learning design in sport , 2012 .

[29]  M. Testa,et al.  Effects of the type of holds and movement amplitude on postural control associated with a climbing task. , 1999, Gait & posture.

[30]  Paul H. Mason,et al.  Degeneracy at Multiple Levels of Complexity , 2010 .

[31]  Karl M. Newell,et al.  Is Variability in Human Performance a Reflection of System Noise? , 1998 .

[32]  Harry W. Johnson Skill = Speed × Accuracy × Form × Adaptability , 1961 .

[33]  I Frosio,et al.  3D analysis of the body center of mass in rock climbing. , 2007, Human movement science.

[34]  Sean Müller,et al.  Expertise Facilitates the Transfer of Anticipation Skill across Domains , 2014, Quarterly journal of experimental psychology.

[35]  E. Brunswik Perception and the Representative Design of Psychological Experiments , 1957 .

[36]  Keith Davids,et al.  Ecological dynamics as a theoretical framework for development of sustainable behaviours towards the environment , 2013 .

[37]  G. Pezzulo,et al.  When affordances climb into your mind: Advantages of motor simulation in a memory task performed by novice and expert rock climbers , 2010, Brain and Cognition.

[38]  F. C. Bakker,et al.  The Role of Anxiety in Perceiving and Realizing Affordances , 2006 .

[39]  V. Nougier,et al.  Kinematic modifications of the manual reaching in climbing: effects of environmental and corporal constraints. , 1993 .

[40]  Franz Konstantin Fuss,et al.  Instrumented climbing holds and performance analysis in sport climbing , 2008 .

[41]  Kevin C. Phillips,et al.  Optimizing Rock Climbing Performance Through Sport-Specific Strength and Conditioning , 2012 .

[42]  W. H. Warren The dynamics of perception and action. , 2006, Psychological review.

[43]  Norris and Ross Mcwhirter,et al.  Guinness Book of World Records , 1969 .

[44]  K. Davids,et al.  Nonlinear pedagogy: Learning design for self-organizing neurobiological systems , 2011 .

[45]  K. Davids,et al.  The concept of 'Organismic Asymmetry' in sport science. , 2010, Journal of science and medicine in sport.

[46]  Keith Davids,et al.  Deconstructing Neurobiological Coordination: The Role of the Biomechanics-Motor Control Nexus , 2010, Exercise and sport sciences reviews.

[47]  Normand Teasdale,et al.  High postural constraints affect the organization of reaching and grasping movements , 1998, Experimental Brain Research.

[48]  Ian Renshaw,et al.  An introduction to the constraints-led approach to learning in outdoor education , 2010 .

[49]  Karl M. Newell,et al.  Constraints on the Development of Coordination , 1986 .

[50]  M. Turvey,et al.  Information, affordances, and the control of action in sport. , 2009 .

[51]  F. C. Bakker,et al.  Memory for the Functional Characteristics of Climbing Walls: Perceiving Affordances , 2002, Journal of motor behavior.

[52]  K. Davids,et al.  The ecological dynamics of decision making in sport , 2006 .

[53]  K Davids,et al.  The natural physical alternative to cognitive theories of motor behaviour: an invitation for interdisciplinary research in sports science? , 1994, Journal of sports sciences.

[54]  Keith Davids,et al.  Information-governing dynamics of attacker–defender interactions in youth rugby union , 2008, Journal of sports sciences.

[55]  Karl M. Newell,et al.  Variability and Motor Control , 1993 .

[56]  R. Carson,et al.  Resistance training enhances the stability of sensorimotor coordination , 2001, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series B: Biological Sciences.

[57]  S. Bennett,et al.  Extended Book Review: Dynamics of Skill Acquisition: A Constraints-Led Approach , 2007 .

[58]  Philippe Bolon,et al.  Entropy, degrees of freedom, and free climbing: a thermodynamic study of a complex behavior based on trajectory analysis. , 1993 .

[59]  E. Brunswik Representative design and probabilistic theory in a functional psychology. , 1955, Psychological review.

[60]  Simon M Fryer,et al.  The effect of technique and ability on the VO2–heart rate relationship in rock climbing , 2012 .

[61]  Philippe Bolon,et al.  Entropy as a global variable of the learning process , 1994 .

[62]  Sean Müller,et al.  Transfer of Expert Visual Anticipation to a Similar Domain , 2014, Quarterly journal of experimental psychology.

[63]  E. Brymer Risk taking in Extreme Sports: A phenomenological perspective , 2010 .

[64]  Vladimir B Issurin,et al.  Training Transfer: Scientific Background and Insights for Practical Application , 2013, Sports Medicine.