Principal bed states during SandyDuck97: Occurrence, spectral anisotropy, and the bed state storm cycle

[1] Results are presented from 70+ days of nearly continuous in situ acoustic imagery of the nearshore sandy seabed in ∼3-m mean water depth, at two locations separated by 40-m cross-shore distance. The bottom sediments were 150 μm median diameter sand, with nearly identical size distributions at the two locations. Five principal bed states were observed: irregular ripples, cross ripples, linear transition ripples, lunate megaripples, and flat bed. The linear transition and flat bed states were the most frequent, together accounting for 68% of the total time. Bed state occurrence was a strong function of incident wave energy, each bed state occurring within a relatively narrow range of sea-and-swell energies. During the 12 major storm events spanned by the record, the bed response was characterized by a repeatable bed state storm cycle, involving four of the five principal states (lunate megaripples did not appear repeatedly, and thus may be a special case), with no obvious dependence of bed state occurrence on prior bed state, or on third-moment measures of wave nonlinearity. Radial spectra from the rotary acoustic images indicate pronounced differences in the anisotropy of spatial scales for the different bed states, and exhibit onshore-offshore differences which are likely related to ripple migration.

[1]  H. Clifton,et al.  Wave-formed structures and paleoenvironmental reconstruction , 1984 .

[2]  W. A. Birkemeier,et al.  A user's guide to the Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC'S) Field Research Facility , 1985 .

[3]  A. Bowen,et al.  Spatially Correlated Depth Changes in the Nearshore Zone During Autumn Storms , 1990 .

[4]  A. Hay,et al.  Wave orbital velocity skewness and linear transition ripple migration: comparison with weakly nonlinear theory , 2003 .

[5]  Michael H. Freilich,et al.  Model‐data comparisons of moments of nonbreaking shoaling surface gravity waves , 1990 .

[6]  H. Edward Clifton,et al.  Wave-Formed Sedimentary Structures—A Conceptual Model , 1987 .

[7]  James D. Irish,et al.  Geometry, migration, and evolution of wave orbital ripples at LEO-15 , 1999 .

[8]  T. Herbers,et al.  Nonlinear shoaling of directionally spread waves on a beach , 1997 .

[9]  Edward B. Thornton,et al.  Transformation of wave height distribution , 1983 .

[10]  Steve Elgar,et al.  Observations of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves , 1985, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[11]  Alex E. Hay,et al.  Coherent Doppler Profiler measurements of near-bed suspended sediment fluxes and the influence of bed forms , 2002 .

[12]  J. F. A. Sleath,et al.  Sea bed mechanics , 1984 .

[13]  Steve Elgar,et al.  Relationships involving third moments and bispectra of a harmonic process , 1987, IEEE Trans. Acoust. Speech Signal Process..

[14]  P. Nielsen Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport , 1992 .

[15]  A. Hay,et al.  Cross‐shore migration of lunate megaripples during Duck94 , 2004 .

[16]  C. Mei The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves , 1983 .

[17]  A. Hay,et al.  Rotary sidescan images of nearshore bedform evolution during a storm , 1994 .

[18]  Douglas L. Inman,et al.  WAVE-FORMED RIPPLES IN NEARSHORE SANDS , 1976 .

[19]  D. Inman,et al.  Field observations of the fluid‐granular boundary layer under near‐breaking waves , 1992 .

[20]  S. Elgar,et al.  Megaripple migration in a natural surf zone , 1998, Nature.

[21]  S. Elgar,et al.  Shoaling transformation of wave frequency‐directional spectra , 2003 .

[22]  A. Hay,et al.  Linear transition ripple migration and wave orbital velocity skewness: Observations , 2001 .

[23]  E. Thornton,et al.  Local and shoaled comparisons of sea surface elevations, pressures, and velocities , 1980 .

[24]  H. Clifton,et al.  Depositional Structures and Processes in the Non-barred High-energy Nearshore , 1971 .

[25]  A. Bowen,et al.  Observations of surf beat forcing and dissipation , 2002 .