LONG WAVE PROFILES OVER A SLOPE.

Abstract : When designing defences against tsunamis and other long waves, it is beneficial to the engineer to be able to visualize the relative dimension of a harbor, bay, or headland and the length of the tsunami. For many practical purposes it is permissible to treat the tsunami as if it were a train of uniform periodic waves moving over a bottom of constant slope. This was done, using linear shallow-water theory; the calculations were made on an IBM 7094 Digital Computer, and the results plotted on a series of graphs. (Author)