A new model for nonlinear wind waves. Part 1. Physical model and experimental evidence

A new interpretation of a nonlinear wind-wave system is proposed. It is proposed that, for steady wind blowing in one direction, a nonlinear wind-wave system can be completely characterized, to a good first approximation, by a single nonlinear wave train having a carrier frequency equal to that of the dominant frequency in the wind-wave spectrum. In this model, the spectral components of the wind-wave system are not considered a random collection of free waves, each obeying the usual dispersion relation, but are effectively non-dispersive bound-wave components of a single dominant wave, travelling at the speed of the dominant wave. To first order, the nonlinear wind-wave system is considered to be a coherent bound-wave system which propagates energy only at the group velocity of the dominant wave and is governed by nonlinear self-interactions of the type found in amplitude-modulated wave trains. The role of short free waves in the system is discussed. Results of laboratory experiments performed by the authors and by Ramamonjiarisoa & Coantic (1976) are found to provide evidence supporting the applicability of such a model to wind waves under virtually all laboratory conditions. Preliminary consideration is given to possible application of the model to oceanic wind waves and conditions are identified for which the model would be most likely to apply.

[1]  O. Phillips On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude Part 2. Local properties of a random wave field , 1961, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[2]  John W. Miles,et al.  On the generation of surface waves by shear flows Part 3. Kelvin-Helmholtz instability , 1959, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[3]  A. J. Sutherland Growth of spectral components in a wind-generated wave train , 1968, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[4]  R. W. Stewart The wave drag of wind over water , 1961, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[5]  Bruce J. West,et al.  Statistical Mechanics of Ocean Waves , 1975 .

[6]  Vladimir E. Zakharov,et al.  Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid , 1968 .

[7]  T. Barnett,et al.  Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) , 1973 .

[8]  Michael Selwyn Longuet-Higgins,et al.  On the nonlinear transfer of energy in the peak of a gravity-wave spectrum: a simplified model , 1976, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[9]  K. Hasselmann On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum Part 1. General theory , 1962, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[10]  Peter H. Y. Lee Doppler measurements of the effects of gravity waves on wind-generated ripples , 1977 .

[11]  J. E. Lewis,et al.  On the interaction of internal waves and surface gravity waves , 1974, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[12]  J. Willebrand,et al.  Energy transport in a nonlinear and inhomogeneous random gravity wave field , 1975, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[13]  J. Miles On the generation of surface waves by shear flows. Part 2 , 1959, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[14]  F. Y. Sorrell,et al.  Optical wave measurement technique and experimental comparison with conventional wave height probes. , 1973, Applied optics.

[15]  J. Deardorff Aerodynamic Theory of Wave Growth with Constant Wave Steepness , 1967 .

[16]  J. Miles On the generation of surface waves by shear flows , 1957, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[17]  O. Phillips On the generation of waves by turbulent wind , 1957, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[18]  O. Phillips On the dynamics of unsteady gravity waves of finite amplitude Part 1. The elementary interactions , 1960, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[19]  P. Saffman,et al.  Stability of a plane soliton to infinitesimal two‐dimensional perturbations , 1978 .

[20]  J. Miles A note on the interaction between surface waves and wind profiles , 1965, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[21]  O. Phillips The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves , 1958, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[22]  W. Ferguson,et al.  Nonlinear deep-water waves: theory and experiment. Part 2. Evolution of a continuous wave train , 1977, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[23]  T. Brooke Benjamin,et al.  The disintegration of wave trains on deep water Part 1. Theory , 1967, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[24]  John W. Miles,et al.  On the generation of surface waves by turbulent shear flows , 1960, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[25]  H. Yuen,et al.  Nonlinear deep water waves: Theory and experiment , 1975 .

[26]  K. Hasselmann On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum. Part 3. Evaluation of the energy flux and swell-sea interaction for a Neumann spectrum , 1963, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[27]  K. Hasselmann On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum Part 2. Conservation theorems; wave-particle analogy; irrevesibility , 1963, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.