Microwave Techniques for Measuring Directional Wave Spectra

A variety of instruments have been developed during the past thirty years for measuring ocean wave spectra. The simplest of these devices is designed to measure, either directly or indirectly, the surface elevation at a given location in space as a function of time. The observed temporal fluctuations of the surface elevation are described statistically in terms of the frequency spectrum. Using the dispersion relation for surface gravity waves, each frequency component may also be associated with a unique wavelength, assuming that the apparent frequency of the waves is not influenced by currents or by the motion of the sensor through the water. However, no information on the direction of propagation of the waves is obtainable from a point measurement of this type.

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