VERIFICATION OF A ONE-DIMENSIONAL SURFBEAT MODEL AGAINST LABORATORY DATA

A mathematical model is presented which describes cross-shore low-frequency motions generated by shoaling and breaking of wave-groups on a beach. The numerical scheme is tested against known analytical solutions for standing waves on a plane beach. Model results are compared with laboratory experiments (Kostense, 1984) which refer to bichromatic carrier waves incident on a plane beach. It is shown that, apart from a good representation of the trends found in the experimental study, for realistic values of the breaking and friction coefficients the computational results also quantitatively agree surprisingly well with the experiments.