Cross-shore mean flow in the surf zone

Abstract The seaward mean returnflow or undertow in the surf zone, which compensates for the shoreward mass flux above the wave trough level, is found to be driven by the force imbalance between the wave momentum flux on the one hand and the set-up on the other hand, in qualitative agreement with the model of Dyhr-Nielsen and Sorensen (1970). A model, which quantifies this imbalance, is shown to yield theoretical results in good accordance with experiments when the proper boundary conditions are accounted for.

[1]  J. Buhr Hansen,et al.  A Theoretical and Experimental Study of Undertow , 1984 .

[2]  D. H. Peregrine,et al.  SPILLING BREAKERS, BORES, AND HYDRAULIC JUMPS , 1978 .

[3]  Michael Selwyn Longuet-Higgins,et al.  Mass transport in water waves , 1953, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[4]  T. Sørensen,et al.  SOME SAND TRANSPORT PHENOMENA OH COASTS WITH BARS , 1970 .

[5]  Michael Selwyn Longuet-Higgins,et al.  Wave set-up, percolation and undertow in the surf zone , 1983, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[6]  J. Lumley,et al.  A First Course in Turbulence , 1972 .

[7]  H. G. Wind,et al.  A Study of Radiation Stress and Set-up in the Nearshore Region , 1982 .

[8]  O. Phillips.  The dynamics of the upper ocean , 1966 .

[9]  M. Stive.  VELOCITY AND PRESSURE FIELD OF SPILLING BREAKERS , 1980 .

[10]  I. A. Svendsen.  Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone , 1984 .