On the generation, dissipation, and prediction of ocean wind waves

A method based on the equation of radiative transfer has been developed for predicting the two-dimensional wind wave spectrum in the North Atlantic Ocean. The model takes account of wave generation by both resonance and instability mechanisms. A simple representation for wave breaking is also included, as are the effects of nonlinear wave interactions. This combination of energy transfer mechanisms is used to compute wave spectra that are in reasonable accord with observations. The results question the concept of a ‘fully developed’ spectrum. The work also points up a lack of understanding of the particulars of various energy transfer mechanisms, as well as the shortcomings of the basic predictive input data.

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