2D Wave setup behind submerged breakwaters

In addition to reducing the incoming wave energy, submerged breakwaters also cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area, which is relevant to the whole shadow zone circulation, including alongshore currents and seaward flows through the gaps. This study examines such a leading hydraulic parameter under the simplified hypothesis of 2D motion and presents a prediction model that has been validated by a wide ensemble of experimental data. Starting from an approach originally proposed by Dalrymple and Dean [(1971). Piling-up behind low and submerged permeable breakwaters. Discussion note on Diskin et al. (1970). Journal of Waterways and Harbors Division WW2, 423–427], the model splits the rise of the mean water level into two contributions: one is due to the momentum flux release forced by wave breaking on the structure, and the other is associated with the mass transport process. For the first time, the case of random wave trains has been explicitly considered.

[1]  Barbara Zanuttigh,et al.  WAVE REFLECTION FROM COASTAL STRUCTURES , 2007 .

[2]  A. Brebner,et al.  SOLID AND PERMEABLE SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS , 1968 .

[3]  Robert A. Dalrymple,et al.  Rip Currents and Their Causes , 1978 .

[4]  土木学会,et al.  Coastal engineering in Japan , 1958 .

[5]  Masashi Hom-ma,et al.  A Study on Submerged Breakwaters , 1961 .

[6]  M. Gourlay.  Wave transformation on a coral reef , 1994 .

[7]  Simon Lang,et al.  A review of empirical equations for estimating stream roughness and their application to four streams in Victoria , 2004 .

[8]  I. A. Svendsen.  Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone , 1984 .

[9]  Takaaki Uda,et al.  Statistical Study on the Effect and Stability of Detached Breakwaters , 1987 .

[10]  Masashi Hom-ma,et al.  An Experimental Study on the Submerged Breakwater , 1959 .

[11]  Barbara Zanuttigh,et al.  Wave transmission and reflection at low-crested structures: Design formulae, oblique wave attack and spectral change , 2005 .

[12]  Riccardo Briganti,et al.  Analysis of wave transmission behind low-crested breakwaters using neural networks , 2007 .

[13]  J. Kamphuis.  Incipient wave breaking , 1991 .

[14]  L.Cappietti Lcappietti,et al.  Piling-Up And Filtration At Low Crested Breakwaters Of Different Permeability , 2007 .

[15]  M. H. Diskin,et al.  Piling-Up behind Low and Submerged Permeable Breakwaters , 1970 .

[16]  Roshanka Ranasinghe,et al.  Shoreline response to submerged structures: A review , 2006 .

[17]  Edward F. Thompson,et al.  Significant Wave Height for Shallow Water Design , 1985 .

[18]  Pasquale Di Pace.  Riflessione di onde regolari in presenza di opere a gettata , 2007 .

[19]  H. Burcharth,et al.  Environmental Design Guidelines for Low Crested Coastal Structures , 2007 .

[20]  D. Debski,et al.  Sea level set-up behind detached breakwaters , 1999 .

[21]  Pierre Danel.  On the limiting clapotis , 1952 .

[22]  M. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ‘surf beats’ , 1962, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[23]  Robert G. Dean,et al.  Full scale monitoring study of a submerged breakwater, Palm Beach, Florida, USA , 1997 .

[24]  Giorgio Bellotti.  A simplified model of rip currents systems around discontinuous submerged barriers , 2004 .

[25]  J. Hansen,et al.  Periodic waves in the surf zone: Analysis of experimental data , 1990 .

[26]  Mariano Buccino,et al.  Conceptual Approach for Prediction of Wave Transmission at Low-Crested Breakwaters , 2007 .

[27]  Hiroyuki Sakai,et al.  WAVE BREAKING OVER PERMEABLE SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS , 1995 .

[28]  Jentsje W. van der Meer,et al.  WAVE TRANSMISSION AT LOW-CRESTED STRUCTURES , 2010 .

[29]  R. Nelson.  Hydraulic roughness of coral reef platforms , 1996 .

[30]  Mariano Buccino,et al.  Low-crested and submerged breakwaters in presence of broken waves , 2003 .

[31]  John Grue,et al.  Nonlinear water waves at a submerged obstacle or bottom topography , 1992, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[32]  Dong-Soo Hur,et al.  Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater , 2003 .

[33]  E. Mansard,et al.  The Measurement of Incident and Reflected Spectra Using a Least squares Method , 1980 .

[34]  A. Okayasu,et al.  Characteristics of Turbulence Structure and Undertow in the Surf Zone , 1989 .

[35]  Jh Loveless,et al.  The Design and Performance of Submerged Breakwaters , 1997 .

[36]  M. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications , 1964 .

[37]  M. Gourlay.  Wave set-up on coral reefs. 1. Set-up and wave-generated flow on an idealised two dimensional horizontal reef , 1996 .

[38]  Hiroshi Kiyono,et al.  Breaking of Standing Two-Components Composite and Irregular Waves , 1985 .