Wine and music (I): on the crossmodal matching of wine and music

For years now, wine writers have been tempted to describe certain wines in terms of musical metaphors and analogies. Until recently, however, it has never been altogether clear how widely shared, and hence meaningful, such surprising cross-sensory connections really were. A growing body of scientific evidence, however, now shows that regular consumers (i.e. non-experts) do reliably match certain wines with particular pieces of music (under conditions of forced choice). When questioned, people also feel that certain wines go well with specific pieces of music, while others do not. As such, it can be argued that describing wines in musical terms can potentially provide useful information concerning the likely sensory, descriptive, analytic and/or hedonic properties of the wine. While some commentators have sought for an explanation for such crossmodal matches in terms of synaesthesia, here we argue that crossmodal correspondences—the associations that the majority of us share between tastes, aromas, flavours, and mouthfeel characteristics on the one hand and particular properties of sound and music on the other—offer a more satisfactory explanation for what may be going on. In particular, we highlight how structural, statistical, semantic and affective correspondences could all play a part in explaining the affinity that so many of us feel between wine and music.

[1]  S. S. Stevens On the psychophysical law. , 1957, Psychological review.

[2]  M. Beardsley,et al.  Aesthetics. Problems in the Philosophy of Criticism , 1959 .

[3]  Bruno Mesz,et al.  The Taste of Music , 2011, Perception.

[4]  John Prescott,et al.  Estimating a “consumer rejection threshold” for cork taint in white wine , 2005 .

[5]  Charles Spence,et al.  “Turn Up the Taste”: Assessing the Role of Taste Intensity and Emotion in Mediating Crossmodal Correspondences between Basic Tastes and Pitch , 2016, Chemical senses.

[6]  C. Spence,et al.  Hedonic mediation of the crossmodal correspondence between taste and shape , 2015 .

[7]  C. Spence,et al.  Composing with Cross-modal Correspondences: Music and Odors in Concert , 2013, Chemosensory Perception.

[8]  H. Buser,et al.  Identification of 2,4,6-trichloroanisole as a potent compound causing cork taint in wine , 1982 .

[9]  Simone Pettigrew,et al.  Is wine consumption an aesthetic experience? , 2005 .

[10]  Diana Baader,et al.  The Mind Of A Mnemonist , 2016 .

[11]  K. Ninomiya,et al.  Science of umami taste: adaptation to gastronomic culture , 2015, Flavour.

[12]  Lutz Jäncke,et al.  Synaesthesia: When coloured sounds taste sweet , 2005, Nature.

[13]  S. Kirby,et al.  What Sound Does That Taste? Cross-Modal Mappings across Gustation and Audition , 2010, Perception.

[14]  C. Spence,et al.  A fruity note: crossmodal associations between odors and musical notes. , 2012, Chemical senses.

[15]  Adrian C. North,et al.  The effect of background music on the taste of wine. , 2012, British journal of psychology.

[16]  Tyler D. Linscott,et al.  Retronasal odor enhancement by salty and umami tastes , 2016 .

[17]  Dominique Valentin,et al.  The Odor of Colors: Can Wine Experts and Novices Distinguish the Odors of White, Red, and Rosé Wines? , 2009 .

[18]  Charles Spence,et al.  That sounds sweet: using cross-modal correspondences to communicate gustatory attributes , 2015 .

[19]  Lawrence E. Marks,et al.  Magnitude-matching: the measurement of taste and smell , 1988 .

[20]  Marc O Ernst,et al.  Natural auditory scene statistics shapes human spatial hearing , 2014, Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

[21]  A. Neill,et al.  Arguing about Art: Contemporary Philosophical Debates , 1994 .

[22]  Hongyan Wang,et al.  The Interlanguage Speech Intelligibility Benefit as Bias Toward Native-Language Phonology , 2015, i-Perception.

[23]  D. Eagleman,et al.  Wednesday Is Indigo Blue: Discovering the Brain of Synesthesia , 2009 .

[24]  A. H. Pierce,et al.  Gustatory Audition; A Hitherto Undescribed Variety of Synaesthesia , 1907 .

[25]  Asher Koriat,et al.  Subjective confidence in one's answers: the consensuality principle. , 2008, Journal of experimental psychology. Learning, memory, and cognition.

[26]  TASTE MATTERS Why we like the foods we do , 2012 .

[27]  Charles Spence,et al.  “What’s Your Taste in Music?” A Comparison of the Effectiveness of Various Soundscapes in Evoking Specific Tastes , 2015, i-Perception.

[28]  Ophelia Deroy,et al.  Why we are not all synesthetes (not even weakly so) , 2013, Psychonomic Bulletin & Review.

[29]  C. Spence,et al.  As bitter as a trombone: Synesthetic correspondences in nonsynesthetes between tastes/flavors and musical notes , 2010, Attention, perception & psychophysics.

[30]  C. Spence,et al.  Crossmodal correspondences between sounds and tastes , 2012, Psychonomic bulletin & review.

[31]  Kristian Holt-Hansen,et al.  Taste and Pitch , 1968, Perceptual and motor skills.

[32]  Lawrence E. Marks,et al.  Synesthesia: Strong and Weak , 2001 .

[33]  P. Walker Cross-Sensory Correspondences and Naive Conceptions of Natural Phenomena , 2012, Perception.

[34]  B. Smith Questions of Taste: The Philosophy of Wine , 2007 .

[35]  R Walker,et al.  The effects of culture, environment, age, and musical training on choices of visual metaphors for sound , 1987, Perception & psychophysics.

[36]  John Prescott Taste Matters: Why We Like the Foods We Do , 2012 .

[37]  J. E. Harrison,et al.  Synaesthesia: The Strangest Thing , 2001 .

[38]  D. Zellner,et al.  The Color of Music: Correspondence through Emotion , 2007 .

[39]  Charles Spence,et al.  Wine and music (II): can you taste the music? Modulating the experience of wine through music and sound , 2015, Flavour.

[40]  Robert A. Boakes,et al.  Sweet and sour smells : learned synesthesia between the senses of taste and smell , 2004 .

[41]  Linda M. Bartoshuk,et al.  Associations between taste genetics, oral sensation and alcohol intake , 2004, Physiology & Behavior.

[42]  C. Spence On Crossmodal Correspondences and the Future of Synaesthetic Marketing: Matching Music and Soundscapes to Tastes, Flavours, and Fragrances , 2013 .

[43]  Karin Wendin,et al.  A Comparative Study on Facially Expressed Emotions in Response to Basic Tastes , 2014, Chemosensory Perception.

[44]  Valeria Mazzoleni,et al.  Effect of wine style on the perception of 2,4,6-trichloroanisole, a compound related to cork taint in wine , 2007 .

[45]  C. Spence,et al.  Assessing the Effect of Musical Congruency on Wine Tasting in a Live Performance Setting , 2015, i-Perception.

[46]  C. Spence Crossmodal correspondences: A tutorial review , 2011, Attention, perception & psychophysics.

[47]  Albert-László Barabási,et al.  Flavor network and the principles of food pairing , 2011, Scientific reports.

[48]  Klaus Frieler,et al.  What is the Sound of Citrus? Research on the Correspondences between the Percept ion of Sound and Flavour , 2012 .

[49]  C. Spence,et al.  A bittersweet symphony: Systematically modulating the taste of food by changing the sonic properties of the soundtrack playing in the background , 2012 .

[50]  J. DeSouza,et al.  Visual attention at the tip of the tongue , 2015, i-Perception.

[51]  Michel Rogeaux,et al.  Temporal Dominance of Sensations: Construction of the TDS curves and comparison with time-intensity , 2009 .

[52]  C. Spence,et al.  Crossmodal correspondences between odors and contingent features: odors, musical notes, and geometrical shapes , 2013, Psychonomic bulletin & review.

[53]  K. Holt-Hansen,et al.  Extraordinary Experiences during Cross-Modal Perception , 1976, Perceptual and motor skills.

[54]  Deniz Başkent,et al.  Normal-Hearing Listeners’ and Cochlear Implant Users’ Perception of Pitch Cues in Emotional Speech , 2015, i-Perception.

[55]  A. Gilbert,et al.  Auditory Pitch as a Perceptual Analogue to Odor Quality , 1997 .

[56]  C. Spence,et al.  'Striking a Sour Note': Assessing the Influence of Consonant and Dissonant Music on Taste Perception. , 2016, Multisensory research.

[57]  L. Marks The Unity of the Senses , 1978 .

[58]  H. Schifferstein,et al.  Visualising Fragrances through Colours: The Mediating Role of Emotions , 2004, Perception.

[59]  For Hedgehogs and Foxes: Individual Differences in the Perception of Cross-Modal Similarity , 1989 .

[60]  L. Marks The Unity of the Senses: Interrelations Among the Modalities , 1978 .

[61]  Geoffrey L. Collier,et al.  Affective synesthesia: Extracting emotion space from simple perceptual stimuli , 1996 .

[62]  Giovanni De Poli,et al.  Communicating expressive intentions with a single piano note , 2006 .

[63]  R. Watt,et al.  Some Robust Higher-Level Percepts for Music , 2007, Perception.

[64]  J. Murre,et al.  A taste for words and sounds: a case of lexical-gustatory and sound-gustatory synesthesia , 2013, Front. Psychol..

[65]  N. Sobel,et al.  An odor is not worth a thousand words: from multidimensional odors to unidimensional odor objects. , 2013, Annual review of psychology.

[66]  C. Spence,et al.  Looking for crossmodal correspondences between classical music and fine wine , 2013, Flavour.

[67]  Karen B. Schloss,et al.  Music–color associations are mediated by emotion , 2013, Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

[68]  P. Friedländer Rock and roll , 1996 .

[69]  Roberto Bresin What is the Color of that Music Performance? , 2005, ICMC.

[70]  Charles Spence,et al.  Implicit association between basic tastes and pitch , 2009, Neuroscience Letters.

[71]  F. Rudmin,et al.  Tone-Taste Synesthesia: A Replication , 1983, Perceptual and motor skills.

[72]  Lutz Jäncke,et al.  The multiple synaesthete E.S. — Neuroanatomical basis of interval-taste and tone-colour synaesthesia , 2008, NeuroImage.