High-resolution bathymetry estimates via X-band marine radar: 1. beaches

Abstract In this paired study, we apply a recently developed high-resolution bathymetry estimation algorithm (“cBathy”) to X-band marine radar observations at two nearshore field sites. The algorithm exploits observations of the spatial structure of wave phase to attain wavenumber estimates, inverts the linear water wave dispersion relation for depth, and then applies a Kalman filter to objectively update the bathymetry estimates. Previously, performance has only been tested using optical video observations. In this first of two papers, performance of the algorithm using X-band radar image time series is tested at two disparate barred beach environments: Duck, NC, USA, and Benson Beach, WA, USA. Each of the test beaches is either co-located with (Duck, NC) or geographically close to (Benson Beach, WA) those utilized in the original algorithm verification. Concurrent echosounder surveys are used as ground truth. The bulk performance of the radar-derived bathymetry estimate at Duck, NC, achieves 0.49 m root-mean-square error (RMSE) with 0.26 m bias deep. This compares well with the bulk performance of the concurrent estimate derived using optical video ( 0.44 m RMSE and 0.23 m bias deep). The radar-derived bathymetry estimate performance at Benson Beach, is similar ( 0.35 m RMSE and 0.11 m bias shallow), and is comparable to that of an optical video derived estimate at a similar Pacific Northwest beach ( 0.56 m RMSE and 0.41 m bias shallow). At both beaches, significantly higher performance is achieved at locations deeper than 2 m (offshore of the surfzone) than at locations shallower than 2 m (surfzone), where errors are often a large fraction of the total depth. Lastly, several weeks of observations are utilized to assess the sensitivity of algorithm quality control to environmental conditions. Thresholds based on the shoreward component of wind stress and offshore wave steepness are identified and shown to impact the areal coverage of radar-derived bathymetric estimates. Overall, these results demonstrate the viability of marine radar observations as input to the cBathy algorithm and delineate some environmental constraints on algorithm performance. In the companion paper, the algorithm is extended to areas where tidal currents are important, including an ebb tidal shoal and an estuary mouth.