Chapter 2: Frequency Domain Wave Models in the Nearshore and Surf Zones

Publisher Summary This chapter discusses nonlinear frequency domain models that have undergone rapid development, and apace with corresponding advances in the time domain realm. They have increased in utility with the incorporation of enhanced frequency dispersion effects, improved shoaling, and energy dissipation from wave breaking. Several formulations for nonlinear frequency domain models are investigated in the chapter. The data-model ensures comparisons to demonstrate that nonlinear models based on the mild-slope equations appear to be more accurate than frequency domain transformations of the extended Boussinesq equations. Initial phases of the irregular wave train are available to drive the models for data-model comparisons to the laboratory data. Smoothed spectra from pressure gauges, and wave buoys or forecast model output are the only source of data. Using smoothed spectra as an initial condition requires multiple runs of the model with random phases, and a time consuming task. With the advent of the SWAN model, the consideration of triad interactions has become more widespread. This is particularly evident as more model systems linking wave, hydrodynamic and sediment modules are developed. The stochastic models described exhibit great potential for operational use, and more development in this area is warranted.

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