A Renaissance in Material Appreciation: Case Study in Zero Waste Fashion

ABSTRACT Current practices in the fashion industry and the use of textile materials are unsustainable. The consumption of clothing and textile products has increased simultaneously with an exponential increase in production volumes. This study focuses on how to newly appreciate material in fashion design through a case study in Zero Waste Fashion (ZWF) practices. The focus in this research is on experimental garment and textile design processes in the area of ZWF and its connection to textile appreciation. The data include interviews with teachers and fashion designers who have experimented with the strategy in design practice. The data also include students’ learning diaries from a ZWF course as well as the course Webpage. This course was organized at Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture in August 2012 and was conducted by fashion designer Holly McQuillan. Qualitative and descriptive research methods have been used to construct an understanding of how a new appreciation for textiles can be fostered in fashion design through a ZWF approach. The main results show that it is possible to facilitate a new kind of appreciation for how fabric is used in fashion design. Additionally it is possible to design new fashion aesthetics through intergrading textile design and fashion design in ZWF practices. For example, combining hand-printing or hand-weaving with creative pattern design can result in a new fashion aesthetic. Additionally, through self-made and handmade approaches in textile design, fashion designers’ understanding and appreciation of textiles can be deepened.