Optical Measurement of Short Wind Waves --- from the Laboratory to the Field

With the Reflective Stereo Slope Gauge and the Medium Angle Slope Gauge, two new imaging instruments for the measurement of short wind waves on the ocean have been developed, validated, and deployed to a four week field experiment. Using active illumination with near-infrared LED light sources they are independent of natural light. Unlike other reflection-based techniques, they can be operated day and night under a wide range of environmental conditions. The instruments' performance was carefully validated in the laboratory and in the field. Their unique capabilities of simultaneously measuring the twodimensional slope probability distribution and the mean square slope (mss) of the waves, as well as wave height and a parameter linked to local surface curvature are demonstrated. Extensive measurements of short wave statistics from an air-sea interaction experiment off the coast of Peru are reported. A large variability of surface conditions due to the changing presence of surfactants on spatial scales smaller than one hundred meters was encountered. In a laboratory experiment, the dependence of gas transfer velocities on the suppression of waves by the soluble artificial surfactant Triton X-100 was investigated. It is shown that mss describes gas transfer velocities better than wind speed or the friction velocity. The new instruments can provide robust routine ship-borne measurements of mss, a key component in the effort of replacing wind speed with mean square slope as the standard parameter for gas transfer velocities.

[1]  B. Kinsman,et al.  Wind Waves , 2018, New Frontiers in Operational Oceanography.

[2]  R. S. Johnson,et al.  A Modern Introduction to the Mathematical Theory of Water Waves: Frontmatter , 1997 .

[3]  F. Bréon,et al.  Spaceborne observations of ocean glint reflectance and modeling of wave slope distributions , 2006 .

[4]  Charles-Antoine Guérin,et al.  Statistical characterization of short wind-waves from stereo images of the sea surface , 2012 .

[5]  B. Jähne,et al.  Improved optical instrument for the measurement of water wave statistics in the field , 2011 .

[6]  G. Jirka,et al.  Experiments on gas transfer at the air–water interface induced by oscillating grid turbulence , 2007, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[7]  W. Melville,et al.  Laboratory measurements of the generation and evolution of Langmuir circulations , 1998, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[8]  H. Graber,et al.  On the wave age dependence of wind stress over pure wind seas , 2003 .

[9]  Hanno Scharr Optimal separable interpolation of color images with bayer array format , 2000 .

[10]  Bertrand Chapron,et al.  Coupled sea surface-atmosphere model: 2. Spectrum of short wind waves , 1999 .

[11]  M. Tempel,et al.  Damping of Waves by Surface‐Active Materials , 1965 .

[12]  J. Lucassen,et al.  Effect of surface-active material on the damping of gravity waves: A reappraisal , 1982 .

[13]  Walter Munk,et al.  An inconvenient sea truth: spread, steepness, and skewness of surface slopes. , 2009, Annual review of marine science.

[14]  M. Coantic A model of gas transfer across air‐water interfaces with capillary waves , 1986 .

[15]  B. Jähne,et al.  High-speed imaging of short wind waves by shape from refraction , 2014 .

[16]  B. Jähne Air-sea gas exchange , 2009 .

[17]  M. Longuet-Higgins The statistical analysis of a random, moving surface , 1957, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[18]  M. Donelan,et al.  Nonstationary Analysis of the Directional Properties of Propagating Waves , 1996 .

[19]  R. Betts,et al.  Acceleration of global warming due to carbon-cycle feedbacks in a coupled climate model , 2000, Nature.

[20]  C. Cox Statistics of the sea surface derived from sun glitter , 1954 .

[21]  Stefan Waas,et al.  Combined slope-height measurements of short wind waves: first results from field and laboratory measurements , 1992, Optics & Photonics.

[22]  L. Merlivat,et al.  Air-Sea Gas Exchange Rates: Introduction and Synthesis , 1986 .

[23]  T. Butt Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing , 2001 .

[24]  W. Alpers,et al.  Attenuation of wind waves by monomolecular sea slicks and the Marangoni Effect , 1987 .

[25]  C. Cox Slopes of the sea surface deduced from photographs of sun glitter , 1956 .

[26]  E. Deacon,et al.  Gas transfer to and across an air-water interface , 1977 .

[27]  Scott C. Doney,et al.  Global ocean storage of anthropogenic carbon , 2012 .

[28]  Taro Takahashi,et al.  Impact of climate change and variability on the global oceanic sink of CO2 , 2010 .

[29]  David M. Karl,et al.  Climate-driven changes to the atmospheric CO2 sink in the subtropical North Pacific Ocean , 2003, Nature.

[30]  David Chenault,et al.  Four camera complete Stokes imaging polarimeter , 2008, SPIE Defense + Commercial Sensing.

[31]  Fernand Meyer,et al.  Topographic distance and watershed lines , 1994, Signal Process..

[32]  Donald S. Scott,et al.  An eddy cell model of mass transfer into the surface of a turbulent liquid , 1970 .

[33]  A Simple Instrument for the Measurement of the Slope and Height Distributions of Small Scale Wind-Driven Water Waves , 2008 .

[34]  C. Cox,et al.  Measuring the two-dimensional structure of a wavy water surface optically: A surface gradient detector , 1994 .

[35]  Sean P. McKenna,et al.  The role of free-surface turbulence and surfactants in air–water gas transfer , 2004 .

[36]  C. J. Zappa,et al.  Infrared remote sensing of breaking waves , 1997, Nature.

[37]  Walter Laas Messung der Meereswellen und ihre Bedeutung für den Schiffbau , 1906 .

[38]  J. Apel An improved model of the ocean surface wave vector spectrum and its effects on radar backscatter , 1994 .

[39]  V. Dulov,et al.  Extraction of short wind wave spectra from stereo images of the sea surface , 2010 .

[40]  Erik J. Bock,et al.  Optical Measurements of Capillary-Gravity Wave Spectra Using a Scanning Laser Slope Gauge , 1995 .

[41]  M. S. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  On the distribution of the heights of sea waves: Some effects of nonlinearity and finite band width , 1980 .

[42]  O. Phillips The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves , 1958, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[43]  G. Crapper,et al.  An exact solution for progressive capillary waves of arbitrary amplitude , 1957, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[44]  C. Sweeney,et al.  Advances in quantifying air-sea gas exchange and environmental forcing. , 2009, Annual review of marine science.

[45]  Xiao-Hai Yan,et al.  The Probability Density Function of Ocean Surface Slopes and Its Effects on Radar Backscatter , 1997 .

[46]  Fabrice Veron,et al.  Measurements of Ocean Surface Turbulence and Wave-Turbulence Interactions (PREPRINT) , 2008 .

[47]  K. Hasselmann On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity wave spectrum Part 2. Conservation theorems; wave-particle analogy; irrevesibility , 1963, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[48]  Bernd Jähne,et al.  Two-dimensional wave number spectra of small-scale water surface waves , 1990 .

[49]  K. Rodgers,et al.  Excess radiocarbon constraints on air‐sea gas exchange and the uptake of CO2 by the oceans , 2006 .

[50]  Michael S. Longuet-Higgins On the Skewness of Sea-Surface Slopes , 1982 .

[51]  L. Kou,et al.  Refractive indices of water and ice in the 0.65- to 2.5 micrometer spectral range , 1993 .

[52]  P Brandt,et al.  Sea-to-air and diapycnal nitrous oxide fluxes in the eastern tropical North Atlantic Ocean , 2011 .

[53]  F. Friedl Investigating the Transfer of Oxygen at the Wavy Air-Water Interface under Wind-Induced Turbulence , 2013 .

[54]  Kerstin E. Krall Laboratory Investigations of Air-Sea Gas Transfer under a Wide Range of Water Surface Conditions , 2013 .

[55]  J. Lucassen Longitudinal capillary waves. Part 2.—Experiments , 1968 .

[56]  S. Elgar Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters , 2007 .

[57]  W. Asher,et al.  Visualizing near-surface concentration fluctuations using laser-induced fluorescence , 2009 .

[58]  N. Frew,et al.  Air–sea gas transfer velocity estimates from the Jason-1 and TOPEX altimeters: Prospects for a long-term global time series , 2007 .

[59]  C. Sweeney,et al.  Constraining global air‐sea gas exchange for CO2 with recent bomb 14C measurements , 2007 .

[60]  Andrew T. Jessup,et al.  Microscale wave breaking and air‐water gas transfer , 2001 .

[61]  Bernd Jähne,et al.  Air‐sea gas transfer: Its dependence on wind stress, small‐scale roughness, and surface films , 2004 .

[62]  K. Hasselmann On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum Part 1. General theory , 1962, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[63]  S. Kitaigorodskii On the Fluid Dynamical Theory of Turbulent Gas Transfer Across an Air-Sea Interface in the Presence of Breaking Wind-Waves , 1984 .

[64]  R. Wanninkhof Relationship between wind speed and gas exchange over the ocean , 1992 .

[65]  M. Longuet-Higgins The effect of non-linearities on statistical distributions in the theory of sea waves , 1963, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[66]  B. Jähne,et al.  Measurements of gas exchange and momentum transfer in a circular wind-water tunnel , 1979 .

[67]  B. Jähne,et al.  LIF measurements of concentration profiles in the aqueous mass boundary layer , 1998 .

[68]  Heinrich Hühnerfuss,et al.  Basic physicochemical principles of monomolecular sea slicks and crude oil spills , 2006 .

[69]  Christopher W. Fairall,et al.  Direct Covariance Flux Estimates from Mobile Platforms at Sea , 1998 .

[70]  A. Benetazzo Measurements of short water waves using stereo matched image sequences , 2006 .

[71]  J. Lucassen Longitudinal capillary waves. Part 1.—Theory , 1968 .

[72]  Howard Schultz,et al.  Retrieval of short ocean wave slope using polarimetric imaging , 2008 .

[73]  Bertrand Chapron,et al.  Importance of peakedness in sea surface slope measurements and applications , 2000 .

[74]  N. Ebuchi,et al.  Wave Dependence of Sea-Surface Wind Stress , 1990 .

[75]  Daniel Kiefhaber,et al.  Development of a Reflective Stereo Slope Gauge for the Measurement of Ocean Surface Wave Slope Statistics , 2010 .

[76]  David R. Basco,et al.  Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists , 1985 .

[77]  O. M. Phillips,et al.  On the incipient breaking of small scale waves , 1974, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[78]  M. Joelson,et al.  On alpha stable distribution of wind driven water surface wave slope. , 2008, Chaos.

[79]  B. Jähne,et al.  A laboratory study of the Schmidt number dependency of air-water gas transfer , 2011 .

[80]  Allen H. Schooley,et al.  A Simple Optical Method for Measuring the Statistical Distribution of Water Surface Slopes , 1954 .

[81]  Fabrice Veron,et al.  Experiments on the stability and transition of wind-driven water surfaces , 2001, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[82]  Statistics of surface divergence and their relation to air‐water gas transfer velocity , 2012 .

[83]  E. Atlas,et al.  Oceanic bromoform sources for the tropical atmosphere , 2004 .

[84]  Scott D. Miller,et al.  Platform Motion Effects on Measurements of Turbulence and Air–Sea Exchange over the Open Ocean , 2008 .

[85]  Stanley J. Jacobs,et al.  Wave damping by a thin layer of viscous fluid , 1997 .

[86]  A. Yezzi,et al.  Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves , 2012 .

[87]  W. Munk,et al.  Measurement of the Roughness of the Sea Surface from Photographs of the Sun’s Glitter , 1954 .

[88]  Tommy D. Dickey,et al.  An overview of sea state conditions and air-sea fluxes during RaDyO , 2012 .

[89]  M. Longuet-Higgins Reflection and Refraction at a Random Moving Surface. II. Number of Specular Points in a Gaussian Surface , 1960 .

[90]  David J. Kriegman,et al.  Binocular Helmholtz stereopsis , 2003, Proceedings Ninth IEEE International Conference on Computer Vision.

[91]  Francesco Fedele,et al.  A Variational Stereo Method for the Three-Dimensional Reconstruction of Ocean Waves , 2011, IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing.

[92]  E. H. Lucassen-Reynders,et al.  Properties of capillary waves , 1970 .

[93]  Casper Labuschagne,et al.  Saturation of the Southern Ocean CO2 Sink Due to Recent Climate Change , 2007, Science.

[94]  Bernd Jähne,et al.  AIR-WATER GAS EXCHANGE , 1998 .

[95]  Christine Kräuter Aufteilung des Transferwiderstands zwischen Luft und Wasser beim Austausch flüchtiger Substanzen mittlerer Löslichkeit zwischen Ozean und Atmosphäre , 2011 .

[96]  Anthony Yezzi,et al.  Space–time measurements of oceanic sea states , 2013 .

[97]  Y. Troitskaya,et al.  Laboratory and theoretical modeling of air-sea momentum transfer under severe wind conditions , 2012 .

[98]  Christopher J. Zappa,et al.  Environmental turbulent mixing controls on air‐water gas exchange in marine and aquatic systems , 2007 .

[99]  R. Steneck,et al.  Coral Reefs Under Rapid Climate Change and Ocean Acidification , 2007, Science.

[100]  David M. Glover,et al.  A new approach to estimation of global air‐sea gas transfer velocity fields using dual‐frequency altimeter backscatter , 2007 .

[101]  B. Jähne,et al.  Measurements of Short Ocean Waves during the MBL ARI West Coast Experiment , 1995 .

[102]  William J. Plant Bound waves and sea-surface slopes , 2003, Oceans 2003. Celebrating the Past ... Teaming Toward the Future (IEEE Cat. No.03CH37492).

[103]  E. J. Bock,et al.  Relationship between air‐sea gas transfer and short wind waves , 1999 .

[104]  Peter Schlosser,et al.  Measurements of air‐sea gas exchange at high wind speeds in the Southern Ocean: Implications for global parameterizations , 2006 .

[105]  Naoto Ebuchi,et al.  Probability Distribution of Surface Wave Slope Derived Using Sun Glitter Images from Geostationary Meteorological Satellite and Surface Vector Winds from Scatterometers , 2001, IEEE International Geoscience and Remote Sensing Symposium.

[106]  D. Hebert,et al.  Toward a universal relationship between wind speed and gas exchange: Gas transfer velocities measured with 3He/SF6 during the Southern Ocean Gas Exchange Experiment , 2011 .

[107]  P. H. Barsic,et al.  Sea surface slope recovery through passive polarimetric imaging , 2012, 2012 Oceans.

[108]  Roland Rocholz Spatio-Temporal Measurement of Short Wind-Driven Water Waves , 2008 .

[109]  B. Jähne,et al.  Imaging of short ocean wind waves: a critical theoretical review , 1994 .

[110]  Ian R. Young,et al.  Wind Generated Ocean Waves , 1999 .

[111]  B. Jähne,et al.  The Influence of Intermittency on Air-Water Gas Transfer Measurements , 2007 .

[112]  O. Phillips Spectral and statistical properties of the equilibrium range in wind-generated gravity waves , 1985, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[113]  M. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  The generation of capillary waves by steep gravity waves , 1963, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[114]  B. Jähne,et al.  Wind/Wave-Tunnel Experiment on the Schmidt Number — and Wave Field Dependence of Air/Water Gas Exchange , 1984 .

[115]  E. Maier‐Reimer,et al.  Anthropogenic ocean acidification over the twenty-first century and its impact on calcifying organisms , 2005, Nature.

[116]  R. Nielsen Gasaustausch - Entwicklung und Ergebnis eines schnellen Massenbilanzverfahrens zur Messung der Austauschparameter , 2004 .

[117]  Andrew T. Jessup,et al.  Coherent structures beneath wind waves and their influence on air‐water gas transfer , 2004 .

[118]  M. J. Tucker,et al.  A CAPACITANCE-WIRE RECORDER FOR SMALL WAVES , 2011 .

[119]  A. Watson,et al.  In situ evaluation of air‐sea gas exchange parameterizations using novel conservative and volatile tracers , 2000 .

[120]  Charles-Antoine Guérin,et al.  Higher‐order statistical analysis of short wind wave fields , 2012 .

[121]  E. J. Bock,et al.  On ripple dynamics: II. A corrected dispersion relation for surface waves in the presence of surface elasticity , 1989 .

[122]  W. Asher,et al.  The interaction of mechanically generated turbulence and interfacial films with a liquid phase controlled gas/liquid transport process , 1986 .

[123]  V. I. Tatarskii Multi-Gaussian Representation of the Cox–Munk Distribution for Slopes of Wind-Driven Waves , 2003 .

[124]  M. Bopp Messung der Schubspannungsgeschwindigkeit am Heidelberger Aeolotron mittels der Impulsbilanzmethode , 2011 .

[125]  Analyzing the footprints of near-surface aqueous turbulence: An image processing-based approach , 2013 .

[126]  Renato Cini,et al.  Experimental evidence of a maximum in the frequency domain of the ratio of ripple attenuation in monolayered water to that in pure water , 1981 .

[127]  Martin A. Green,et al.  Self-consistent optical parameters of intrinsic silicon at 300 K including temperature coefficients , 2008 .