A TECHNIQUE FOR IDENTIFICATION OF SEAM PUCKER DUE TO FABRIC STRUCTURAL JAMMING

In garment manufacture, causes of sewability problems have to be identified so that remedial actions can be applied. In the case of seam pucker, establishing the cause of the problem is not easy because many different variables can produce the same fault. Existing methods of identifying seam pucker due to structural jamming are tedious, time consuming and inefficient. A technique of producing structural jamming pucker in test seams and eliminating other causes of pucker has been established. This technique involves the attachment of a simple device onto the L and M sewability tester or in principle to any sewing action simulator. The device has proved to be a simple and cheap method of producing specimens for the assessment of structural jamming pucker.