Wave Modelling - The State of the Art

[1]  P. Allen,et al.  Tides and Waves , 2009 .

[2]  George Gabriel Stokes,et al.  On the theory of oscillatory waves , 2009 .

[3]  Peter A. E. M. Janssen,et al.  The Intermediate Water Depth Limit of the Zakharov Equation and Consequences for Wave Prediction , 2007 .

[4]  Paul A. Hwang,et al.  Spectral signature of wave breaking in surface wave components of intermediate-length scale , 2007 .

[5]  Fabrice Ardhuin,et al.  Swell and Slanting-Fetch Effects on Wind Wave Growth , 2007 .

[6]  F. Ardhuin,et al.  Scattering of surface gravity waves by bottom topography with a current , 2007, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[7]  J. Winterwerp,et al.  Modelling of wave damping at Guyana mud coast , 2007 .

[8]  F. Ardhuin,et al.  Evolution of surface gravity waves over a submarine canyon , 2006, physics/0608178.

[9]  Richard Manasseh,et al.  Passive Acoustic Determination of Wave-Breaking Events and Their Severity across the Spectrum , 2006 .

[10]  Refraction of surface gravity waves by shear waves , 2006 .

[11]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  Generalized evolution equations for nonlinear surface gravity waves over two-dimensional topography , 2006, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[12]  Fabrice Ardhuin,et al.  On the Interaction of Surface Waves and Upper Ocean Turbulence , 2006 .

[13]  Alexander V. Babanin,et al.  Spectral Distribution of Energy Dissipation of Wind-Generated Waves due to Dominant Wave Breaking , 2006 .

[14]  Gerbrant Ph. van Vledder,et al.  The WRT method for the computation of non-linear four-wave interactions in discrete spectral wave models , 2006 .

[15]  Luigi Cavaleri,et al.  WAVE MODELING Where to Go in the Future , 2006 .

[16]  V. Zakharov.  Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics Theoretical interpretation of fetch limited wind-driven sea observations , 2005 .

[17]  H. Schäffer,et al.  Wave transformation models with exact second-order transfer , 2005 .

[18]  F. Ardhuin,et al.  Current effects on scattering of surface gravity waves by bottom topography , 2005, physics/0510150.

[19]  F. Ardhuin,et al.  Numerical and Physical Diffusion: Can Wave Prediction Models Resolve Directional Spread? , 2005 .

[20]  P. Hwang.  Temporal and spatial variation of the drag coefficient of a developing sea under steady wind‐forcing , 2005 .

[21]  A. Izquierdo,et al.  Weak wind-wave/tide interaction over fixed and moveable bottoms: a formulation and some preliminary results , 2005 .

[22]  Steve Elgar,et al.  Reflection and tunneling of ocean waves observed at a submarine canyon , 2005 .

[23]  Alan G. Davies,et al.  Modeling and measurement of sediment transport by waves in the vortex ripple regime , 2005 .

[24]  Fengyan Shi,et al.  Curvilinear parabolic approximation for surface wave transformation with wave-current interaction , 2005 .

[25]  Vladimir Makin,et al.  A Note on the Drag of the Sea Surface at Hurricane Winds , 2005 .

[26]  Marcel Zijlema,et al.  On convergence behaviour and numerical accuracy in stationary SWAN simulations of nearshore wind wave spectra , 2005 .

[27]  Tai-Wen Hsu,et al.  Hindcasting nearshore wind waves using a FEM code for SWAN , 2005 .

[28]  Duane E. Waliser,et al.  Air-sea interaction , 2005 .

[29]  F. Ardhuin,et al.  On the Effect of Wind And Turbulence On Ocean Swell , 2005 .

[30]  I. Young,et al.  Two-phase behaviour of the spectral dissipation of wind waves , 2005 .

[31]  Scott Peak.  Wave Refraction Over Complex Nearshore Bathymetry , 2004 .

[32]  A. Davies,et al.  An eddy viscosity formulation for oscillatory flow over vortex ripples , 2004 .

[33]  Alexander V. Babanin,et al.  Using wavelet spectrum analysis to resolve breaking events in the wind wave time series , 2004 .

[34]  Nicolas Reul,et al.  On the limiting aerodynamic roughness of the ocean in very strong winds , 2004 .

[35]  Harry B. Bingham,et al.  A numerical study of crescent waves , 2004, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[36]  Paul A. Hwang,et al.  An empirical investigation of source term balance of small scale surface waves , 2004 .

[37]  J. Restrepo,et al.  An asymptotic theory for the interaction of waves and currents in coastal waters , 2004, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[38]  Edgar L. Andreas,et al.  Spray Stress Revisited , 2004 .

[39]  Qingping Zou,et al.  NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE A Simple Model for Random Wave Bottom Friction and Dissipation , 2004 .

[40]  B. Lange,et al.  On detection of a wave age dependency for the sea surface roughness , 2004 .

[41]  J. McWilliams,et al.  The oceanic boundary layer driven by wave breaking with stochastic variability. Part 1. Direct numerical simulations , 2004, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[42]  V. Kudryavtsev,et al.  Impact of Swell on the Marine Atmospheric Boundary Layer , 2004 .

[43]  Michael L. Banner,et al.  Influence of Mean Water Depth and a Subsurface Sandbar on the Onset and Strength of Wave Breaking , 2004 .

[44]  Validation of HF radar probing of the vertical shear of surface currents by acoustic Doppler current profiler measurements , 2004 .

[45]  User's Manual for Long-Range Swell Forecasting Model , 2004 .

[46]  N. Yokoyama.  Statistics of gravity waves obtained by direct numerical simulation , 2004, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[47]  Harry B. Bingham,et al.  Numerical solutions of fully non‐linear and highly dispersive Boussinesq equations in two horizontal dimensions , 2004 .

[48]  V. Zakharov,et al.  Weak turbulent Kolmogorov spectrum for surface gravity waves. , 2003, Physical review letters.

[49]  Donald T. Resio,et al.  Equilibrium‐range constant in wind‐generated wave spectra , 2004 .

[50]  Eddy viscosity and Eulerian drift over rippled beds in waves , 2004 .

[51]  H. Tolman.  Inverse modeling of discrete interaction approximations for nonlinear interactions in wind waves , 2004 .

[52]  QUASI-RESONANT INTERACTIONS IN SHALLOW WATER , 2004 .

[53]  G. Athanassoulis,et al.  A Coupled-Mode Technique for Wave-Current Interaction in Variable Bathymetry Regions , 2004 .

[54]  P. Janssen.  The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind , 2004 .

[55]  Topographical Scattering of Waves: a Spectral Approach , 2005, physics/0504148.

[56]  G. Stone,et al.  Observations of nearshore wave dissipation over muddy sea beds , 2003 .

[57]  Robert A. Dalrymple,et al.  Boussinesq modeling of longshore currents , 2003 .

[58]  Stephan T. Grilli,et al.  Landslide tsunami case studies using a Boussinesq model and a fully nonlinear tsunami generation model , 2003 .

[59]  V. Polnikov.  The choice of optimal Discrete Interaction Approximation to the kinetic integral for ocean waves , 2003 .

[60]  Nico Booij,et al.  Phase-decoupled refraction¿diffraction for spectral wave models , 2003 .

[61]  I. Young,et al.  Direct measurements of the bottom friction factor beneath surface gravity waves , 2003 .

[62]  D. Resio,et al.  Weak turbulent approach to the wind-generated gravity sea waves , 2003 .

[63]  Swell Transformation across the Continental Shelf. Part II: Validation of a Spectral Energy Balance Equation , 2003 .

[64]  Fabrice Ardhuin,et al.  Swell transformation across the continental shelf. Part I: Attenuation and directional broadening , 2003 .

[65]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  Long waves induced by short-wave groups over a sloping bottom , 2003 .

[66]  Igor V. Lavrenov.  Optimal Numerical Realization of the Energy Balance Equation for Wind Wave Models , 2003, International Conference on Computational Science.

[67]  Jose-Henrique G. M. Alves,et al.  Performance of a Saturation-Based Dissipation-Rate Source Term in Modeling the Fetch-Limited Evolution of Wind Waves , 2003 .

[68]  H. Schäffer,et al.  Boussinesq-type formulations for fully nonlinear and extremely dispersive water waves: derivation and analysis , 2003, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences.

[69]  V. Polnikov,et al.  Validation of the three-wave quasi-kinetic approximation for the spectral evolution in shallow water , 2003 .

[70]  Peter A. E. M. Janssen,et al.  Nonlinear Four-Wave Interactions and Freak Waves , 2003 .

[71]  M. Powell,et al.  Reduced drag coefficient for high wind speeds in tropical cyclones , 2003, Nature.

[72]  C. Friehe,et al.  Dynamical coupling of wind and ocean waves through wave-induced air flow , 2003, Nature.

[73]  A Numerical Study of a Nonstationary Solution of the Hasselmann Equation , 2003 .

[74]  M. Bottema,et al.  IMPROVED MODELLING OF NONLINEAR FOUR-WAVE INTERACTIONS IN SHALLOW WATER , 2003 .

[75]  E. J. Bock,et al.  Observation of hydrodynamic modulation of gravity‐capillary waves by dominant gravity waves , 2003 .

[76]  Chiang C. Mei,et al.  Weakly nonlinear surface waves over a random seabed , 2003, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[77]  L. Holthuijsen,et al.  FOUR-WAVE INTERACTIONS in SWAN , 2003 .

[78]  R. Gorman.  The Treatment of Discontinuities in Computing the Nonlinear Energy Transfer for Finite-Depth Gravity Wave Spectra , 2003 .

[79]  Hendrik L. Tolman,et al.  Treatment of unresolved islands and ice in wind wave models , 2003 .

[80]  S. Elgar,et al.  Shoaling transformation of wave frequency‐directional spectra , 2003 .

[81]  H. Schäffer,et al.  FULLY DISPERSIVE EVOLUTION EQUATIONS: WAVE BREAKING AND EFFICIENCY , 2003 .

[82]  V. Polnikov,et al.  On the problem of optimal approximation of the four-wave kinetic integral , 2002 .

[83]  David M. Farmer,et al.  Multiscale Measurements of Ocean Wave Breaking Probability , 2002 .

[84]  S. Elgar,et al.  Bragg reflection of ocean waves from sandbars , 2002 .

[85]  S. Glenn,et al.  Predicting Bed Scour on the Continental Shelf during Hurricane Andrew , 2002 .

[86]  James M. Kaihatu,et al.  Diffusion reduction in an arbitrary scale third generation wind wave model , 2002 .

[87]  A basing of the diffusion approximation derivation for the four-wave kinetic integral and properties of the approximation , 2002 .

[88]  A. Sheremet,et al.  Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components , 2002 .

[89]  Luigi Cavaleri,et al.  Effect of wind variability and variable air density on wave modeling , 2002 .

[90]  J. Kirby,et al.  Monochromatic and random wave breaking at blocking points , 2002 .

[91]  Hendrik L. Tolman,et al.  Alleviating the Garden Sprinkler Effect in wind wave models , 2002 .

[92]  W. Oost,et al.  New evidence for a relation between wind stress and wave age from measurements during ASGAMAGE , 2002 .

[93]  Miguel C. Teixeira,et al.  On the distortion of turbulence by a progressive surface wave , 2002, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[94]  W. Kendall Melville,et al.  Distribution of breaking waves at the ocean surface , 2002, Nature.

[95]  H. Tolman,et al.  Development and Implementation of Wind-Generated Ocean Surface Wave Modelsat NCEP , 2002 .

[96]  V. Kudryavtsev,et al.  Impact Of Dominant Waves On Sea Drag , 2002 .

[97]  Validation of Operational Global Wave Prediction Models With Spectral Buoy Data , 2002 .

[98]  van Vledder,et al.  Extension of the Discrete Interaction Approximation for Computing Nonlinear Quadruplet Wave-Wave Interactions in Operational Wave Prediction Models , 2002 .

[99]  Iris Möller,et al.  Wave dissipation over macro-tidal saltmarshes: Effects of marsh edge typology and vegetation change , 2002, Journal of Coastal Research.

[100]  F. Ardhuin,et al.  Bragg scattering of random surface gravity waves by irregular seabed topography , 2002, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[101]  A. Osborne,et al.  Freely decaying weak turbulence for sea surface gravity waves. , 2002, Physical review letters.

[102]  N. Booij,et al.  The effects of swell and wave steepness on wave growth and depth-induced wave breaking , 2002 .

[103]  Hendrik L. Tolman,et al.  Limiters in Third-Generation Wind Wave Models , 2002 .

[104]  Jun Zhang,et al.  Third Generation Wind Wave Model Frequency Dependence of the White-Capping Dissipation Source Function , 2002 .

[105]  Bertrand Chapron,et al.  Higher–order hydrodynamic modulation: theory and applications for ocean waves , 2001, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences.

[106]  Fabrice Veron,et al.  Experiments on the stability and transition of wind-driven water surfaces , 2001, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[107]  Mitsuhiro Tanaka.  Verification of Hasselmann's energy transfer among surface gravity waves by direct numerical simulations of primitive equations , 2001, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[108]  Alexander V. Babanin,et al.  Breaking probabilities for dominant surface waves on water of finite constant depth , 2001 .

[109]  Fabrice Ardhuin,et al.  A Hybrid Eulerian–Lagrangian Model for Spectral Wave Evolution with Application to Bottom Friction on the Continental Shelf , 2001 .

[110]  John Y. N. Cho,et al.  Horizontal velocity structure functions in the upper troposphere and lower stratosphere 1 , 2001 .

[111]  Donald T. Resio,et al.  Nonlinear energy fluxes and the finite depth equilibrium range in wave spectra , 2001 .

[112]  I. Lavrenov.  Effect of Wind Wave Parameter Fluctuation on the Nonlinear Spectrum Evolution , 2001 .

[113]  J. Kaihatu.  Improvement of Parabolic Nonlinear Dispersive Wave Model , 2001 .

[114]  J. Annan,et al.  Comments on “Improvement of the Short-Fetch Behavior in the Wave Ocean Model (WAM)” , 2001 .

[115]  Gerbrant Ph. van Vledder,et al.  Modelling of Non-Linear Quadruplet Wave-Wave Interactions in Operational Wave Models , 2001 .

[116]  J. P. Hansen,et al.  High Range Resolution Radar Measurements of the Speed Distribution of Breaking Events in Wind-Generated Ocean Waves: Surface Impulse and Wave Energy Dissipation Rates , 2001 .

[117]  H.A.H. Petit.  Diffusion and dispersion of numerical schemes for Hyperbolic problems , 2001 .

[118]  Lb Mason,et al.  A wave model for the Great Barrier Reef , 2001 .

[119]  D. Resio,et al.  Numerical Simulation of Weak Turbulent Kolmogorov Spectrum in Water Surface Waves , 2001 .

[120]  Alexander V. Babanin,et al.  Breaking Probability for Dominant Waves on the Sea Surface , 2000 .

[121]  Steve Elgar,et al.  Spectral Energy Balance of Breaking Waves within the Surf Zone , 2000 .

[122]  Robert N. Swift,et al.  Airborne Measurements of the Wavenumber Spectra of Ocean Surface Waves. Part I: Spectral Slope and Dimensionless Spectral Coefficient* , 2000 .

[123]  Jun Zhang,et al.  Free-Wave Energy Dissipation in Experimental Breaking Waves , 2000 .

[124]  W. Rosenthal,et al.  Spectral wave modelling with non-linear dissipation: validation and applications in a coastal tidal environment , 2000 .

[125]  Ocean forecasting in narrow shelf seas: application to the Spanish coasts , 2000 .

[126]  Julia C. Hargreaves,et al.  The spectral wave model, WAM, adapted for applications with high spatial resolution , 2000 .

[127]  Stephen E. Belcher,et al.  Effects of Long Waves on Wind-Generated Waves , 2000 .

[128]  Cynthia Viernes Tinder,et al.  Swell Transformation Across the Continental Shelf , 2000 .

[129]  Chiu-On Ng,et al.  Water waves over a muddy bed: a two-layer Stokes' boundary layer model , 2000 .

[130]  A. Sheremet,et al.  STOCHASTIC EVOLUTION MODELS FOR NONLINEAR GRAVITY WAVES OVER UNEVEN TOPOGRAPHY , 2000 .

[131]  Jie Yu,et al.  Do longshore bars shelter the shore? , 2000, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[132]  James C. McWilliams,et al.  Simulation of turbulent flow over idealized water waves , 2000, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[133]  Stanford,et al.  Capillary–gravity wave transport over spatially random drift , 2000, physics/0001001.

[134]  J. Kirby,et al.  BOUSSINESQ MODELING OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION, BREAKING, AND RUNUP. II: 2D , 2000 .

[135]  Alastair D. Jenkins,et al.  A Simple Formula For Nonlinear Wave-Wave Interaction , 2000 .

[136]  Michel Benoit,et al.  Non-linear propagation of unidirectional wave fields over varying topography , 1999 .

[137]  Y. Eldeberky,et al.  Deterministic and stochastic evolution equations for fully dispersive and weakly nonlinear waves , 1999 .

[138]  Mark A. Donelan,et al.  On momentum flux and velocity spectra over waves , 1999 .

[139]  Jeffrey L. Hanson,et al.  Wind Sea Growth and Dissipation in the Open Ocean , 1999 .

[140]  M. Donelan,et al.  Evidence for the Effects of Swell and Unsteady Winds on Marine Wind Stress , 1999 .

[141]  Judith Wolf,et al.  The estimation of shear stresses from near-bed turbulent velocities for combined wave–current flows , 1999 .

[142]  J. Wolf,et al.  Some observations of wave-current interaction , 1999 .

[143]  Peter A. E. M. Janssen,et al.  Improvement of the Short-Fetch Behavior in the Wave Ocean Model (WAM) , 1999 .

[144]  Gerassimos A. Athanassoulis,et al.  A consistent coupled-mode theory for the propagation of small-amplitude water waves over variable bathymetry regions , 1999, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[145]  W. Perrie,et al.  Wave‐wave interactions in finite depth water , 1999 .

[146]  Vladimir E. Zakharov,et al.  Statistical theory of gravity and capillary waves on the surface of a finite-depth fluid , 1999 .

[147]  NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS OF DIRECTIONALLY SPREAD SHOALING SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES , 1999 .

[148]  N. Booij,et al.  A third-generation wave model for coastal regions-1 , 1999 .

[149]  V. Zakharov,et al.  Diffusion model of interacting gravity waves on the surface of deep fluid , 1999 .

[150]  C. Villaret,et al.  Eulerian drift induced by progressive waves above rippled and very rough beds , 1999 .

[151]  Takuji Waseda,et al.  Laboratory observations of wave group evolution, including breaking effects , 1999, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[152]  Per A. Madsen,et al.  A review of Boussinesq-type equations for gravity waves , 1999 .

[153]  M. Donelan,et al.  The Vertical Structure of Shear and Dissipation in the Ocean Surface Layer , 1999 .

[154]  S. Larsen,et al.  On the Dependence of Sea Surface Roughness on Wind Waves , 1998 .

[155]  Nonlinear Evolution of Surface Wave Spectra on a Beach , 1998 .

[156]  B. Ruessink.  Bound and free infragravity waves in the nearshore zone under breaking and nonbreaking conditions , 1998 .

[157]  H. Kofoed-Hansen,et al.  Modelling of nonlinear shoaling based on stochastic evolution equations , 1998 .

[158]  A. Babanin,et al.  Field Investigation of Transformation of the Wind Wave Frequency Spectrum with Fetch and the Stage of Development , 1998 .

[159]  R. Salmon,et al.  Geophysical Fluid Dynamics , 2019, Classical Mechanics in Geophysical Fluid Dynamics.

[160]  Dick K. P. Yue,et al.  On generalized Bragg scattering of surface waves by bottom ripples , 1998, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[161]  Bengt Fornberg,et al.  On the chance of freak waves at sea , 1998, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[162]  N. Booij,et al.  Modeling wind waves using wavenumber-direction spectra and a variable wavenumber grid , 1998 .

[163]  W. A. Oost,et al.  On the sea state dependence of the Charnock parameter , 1998 .

[164]  Alexander V. Babanin,et al.  Variability of directional spectra of wind-generated waves, studied by means of wave staff arrays , 1998 .

[165]  V. Polnikov,et al.  Three-Wave Quasi-Kinetic Approximation in the Problem of the Evolution of a Spectrum of Nonlinear Gravity Waves at Small Depths , 1998 .

[166]  N. Hashimoto,et al.  NUMERICAL COMPUTATIONS OF THE NONLINEAR ENERGY TRANSFER OF GRAVITY-WAVE SPECTRA IN FINITE WATER DEPTHS , 1998 .

[167]  Steve Elgar,et al.  Modeling spectra of breaking surface waves in shallow water , 1997 .

[168]  T. Herbers,et al.  Nonlinear shoaling of directionally spread waves on a beach , 1997 .

[169]  A. Sheremet,et al.  Stochastic nonlinear shoaling of directional spectra , 1997, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[170]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  A STATISTICAL APPROACH FOR MODELING TRIAD INTERACTIONS IN DISPERSIVE WAVES , 1997 .

[171]  Michel Benoit,et al.  DEVELOPMENT OF A THIRD GENERATION SHALLOW-WATER WAVE MODEL WITH UNSTRUCTURED SPATIAL MESHING , 2010 .

[172]  V. Polnikov.  Nonlinear Energy Transfer through the Spectrum of Gravity Waves for the Finite Depth Case , 1997 .

[173]  J. Miles.  On Janssen’s Model for Surface Wave Generation by a Gusty Wind , 1997 .

[174]  M. Gomez Lahoz,et al.  A two-way nesting procedure for the WAM model: Application to the Spanish coast , 1997 .

[175]  M. Donelan,et al.  On waves, oceanic turbulence, and their interaction , 1997 .

[176]  C. Mastenbroek.  Wind-wave interaction , 1996 .

[177]  George Papanicolaou,et al.  Transport equations for elastic and other waves in random media , 1996 .

[178]  Hendrik L. Tolman,et al.  Source Terms in a Third-Generation Wind Wave Model , 1996 .

[179]  A. J. Mehta,et al.  Mudbanks of the southwest coast of India. V : Wave attenuation , 1996 .

[180]  K. Komatsu,et al.  A new scheme of nonlinear energy transfer among wind waves: RIAM method-algorithm and performance- , 1996 .

[181]  C. Mei,et al.  Resonant reflection of surface gravity waves by one‐dimensional doubly sinusoidal beds , 1996 .

[182]  Albert J. Williams,et al.  Estimates of Kinetic Energy Dissipation under Breaking Waves , 1996 .

[183]  James T. Kirby,et al.  Nonlinear, Dispersive Long Waves in Water of Variable Depth. , 1996 .

[184]  D. Masson,et al.  A Case Study of Wave–Current Interaction in a Strong Tidal Current , 1996 .

[185]  Peter A. Taylor,et al.  Boundary-layer flow over topography : Impacts of the Askervein study , 1996 .

[186]  W. D. Mckee.  A Model for Surface Wave Propagation across a Shearing Current , 1996 .

[187]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  Spectral modeling of wave breaking: Application to Boussinesq equations , 1996 .

[188]  Patricia L. Wiberg.  A theoretical investigation of boundary layer flow and bottom shear stress for smooth, transitional, and rough flow under waves , 1995 .

[189]  H. Tolman.  Subgrid modeling of moveable-bed bottom friction in wind wave models , 1995 .

[190]  James M. Kaihatu,et al.  Nonlinear transformation of waves in finite water depth , 1995 .

[191]  G. Wei,et al.  A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part 1. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves , 1995, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[192]  I. Young,et al.  Measurements of the evolution of ocean wave spectra due to bottom friction , 1995 .

[193]  C. Mastenbroek,et al.  Drag of the sea surface , 1995 .

[194]  H. Tolman.  On the selection of propagation schemes for a spectral wind-wave model , 1995 .

[195]  V. Kudryavtsev.  The coupling of wind and internal waves: modulation and friction mechanisms , 1994, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[196]  The influence of drift flow turbulence on surface gravity wave propagation , 1994 .

[197]  W. Kendall Melville,et al.  Energy Dissipation by Breaking Waves , 1994 .

[198]  Jaak Monbaliu,et al.  Effects of the bottom friction formulation on the energy balance for gravity waves in shallow water , 1994 .

[199]  M. Donelan,et al.  Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves , 1994 .

[200]  Steve Elgar,et al.  Reflection of Ocean Surface Gravity Waves from a Natural Beach , 1994 .

[201]  M. Banner,et al.  Modeling Spectral Dissipation in the Evolution of Wind Waves. Part I: Assessment of Existing Model Performance , 1994 .

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[203]  H. Tolman.  Wind Waves and Moveable-Bed Bottom Friction , 1994 .

[204]  Steve Elgar,et al.  INFRAGRAVITY-FREQUENCY (0.005-0.05 HZ) MOTIONS ON THE SHELF , 2010 .

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[206]  John W. Miles,et al.  Surface-wave generation revisited , 1993, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[207]  Changhoon Lee,et al.  Short Waves in a Rotating, Shallow Tank with Bathymetry: A Model Equation in the Mild-Slope Approximation , 1993, SIAM J. Appl. Math..

[208]  Rolf Deigaard,et al.  A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water , 1993 .

[209]  Implementation of an efficient scheme for calculating nonlinear transfer from wave‐wave interactions , 1993 .

[210]  M. Stiassnie,et al.  Nonlinear evolution of a unidirectional shoaling wave field , 1993 .

[211]  V. Shrira.  Surface waves on shear currents: solution of the boundary-value problem , 1993, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[212]  Per A. Madsen,et al.  Bound waves and triad interactions in shallow water , 1993 .

[213]  S. Belcher,et al.  Turbulent shear flow over slowly moving waves , 1993, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[214]  R. Guza,et al.  A comparison of two spectral wave models in the Southern California Bight , 1993 .

[215]  I. Young,et al.  A review of the central role of nonlinear interactions in wind—wave evolution , 1993, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A: Physical and Engineering Sciences.

[216]  Leo H. Holthuijsen,et al.  The Directional Response of Ocean Waves to Turning Winds , 1993 .

[217]  D. Chalikov,et al.  One-dimensional theory of the wave boundary layer , 1993 .

[218]  S. Abdalla,et al.  Third‐Generation Wind‐Wave Model for Use on Personal Computers , 1993 .

[219]  Hajime Mase,et al.  Hybrid frequency-domain KdV equa-tion for random wave transformation , 1992 .

[220]  P. Janssen.  Experimental Evidence of the Effect of Surface Waves on the Airflow , 1992 .

[221]  Hendrik L. Tolman,et al.  Effects of Numerics on the Physics in a Third-Generation Wind-Wave Model , 1992 .

[222]  P. Nielsen.  Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport , 1992 .

[223]  L. Hasse,et al.  Sea surface wind stress and drag coefficients: The hexos results , 1992 .

[224]  Eugene A. Terray,et al.  A technique for making unbiased estimates of current shear from a wave-follower , 1992 .

[225]  P. Janssen,et al.  An analytic model of the generation of surface gravity waves by turbulent air flow , 1992, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[226]  An evaluation of expressions for wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction in the presence of currents , 1992 .

[227]  Gregory Falkovich,et al.  Kolmogorov Spectra of Turbulence I , 1992 .

[228]  M. Banner,et al.  Numerical Experiments on the Evolution of Fetch Limited Waves , 1992 .

[229]  Hua Feng,et al.  Theoretical Study of Breaking Wave Spectrum and its Application , 1992 .

[230]  M. Loewen,et al.  Sound Production and Air Entrainment by Breaking Waves: A Review of Recent Laboratory Experiments , 1992 .

[231]  S. L. Weber,et al.  Eddy-viscosity and drag-law models for random ocean wave dissipation , 1991, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[232]  Jens Bösenberg,et al.  Field measurements of wave-induced pressure over wind-sea and swell , 1991, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[233]  J. F. A. Sleath,et al.  Velocities and shear stresses in wave‐current flows , 1991 .

[234]  Hendrik L. Tolman,et al.  Effects of the Gulf Stream on ocean waves , 1991 .

[235]  D. Chalikov,et al.  Models of the wave boundary layer , 1991 .

[236]  Hendrik L. Tolman,et al.  Effects of Tides and Storm Surges on North Sea Wind Waves , 1991 .

[237]  Hendrik L. Tolman,et al.  A Third-Generation Model for Wind Waves on Slowly Varying, Unsteady, and Inhomogeneous Depths and Currents , 1991 .

[238]  B. P. Leonard,et al.  The ULTIMATE conservative difference scheme applied to unsteady one-dimensional advection , 1991 .

[239]  W. Perrie,et al.  A numerical study of nonlinear energy fluxes due to wave-wave interactions Part 1. Methodology and basic results , 1991, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

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