Intertidal beach profile estimation using video images

Abstract In this paper, we present a technique suitable for measurement of intertidal bathymetry over a broad range of length scales (10 1 to 10 3 m) and time scales (days to decades). A series of time-averaged images of the swash zone are used to map contour lines of the beach surface. In each image, contours are identified using bands of maximum brightness associated with breaking waves at the shoreline. By mapping the location of these bands in a sequence of images collected over one tidal cycle, contour maps of the intertidal bathymetry are generated. We expect this technique to work best (smallest absolute error) under waves which are nearly reflective at the shoreline, but break enough to be observed visually. This is typical of a barred beach since the wave height at the shoreline is limited by wave breaking over the bar crest. The ability of the measurements made with this technique to resolve actual beach elevation variation depends on the ratio of the measurement error variance to the true beach elevation variance. Thus, large measurement errors may be compensated by either large tidal ranges or large temporal changes of the beach itself. In a comparison to bathymetry surveyed using a Differential Global Positioning System (DGPS) during the Duck94 experiment, in Duck, N.C., the image-based elevation estimates were well correlated with the actual bathymetry. The deviations (imagebased vs. DGPS measurements) may be partially attributed to effects scaled by wave height at the shoreline, wave-induced setup, and wave height saturation over the sand bar. In particular, setup was important during dissipative conditions. The rms deviation (vertical) between the DGPS and image-based bathymetry was reduced from 0.24 m to 0.06 m by correcting for the systematic deviations due to variations in setup and wave height saturation. Further improvement of the elevation estimates resulted from parameterizing the actual bathymetry with a simple plane beach surface, which reduced random (or unresolvable) measurement errors. This led to estimates of the beach slope that were accurate to within 10% of the actual slope and estimates of the cross-shore location of the mean sea level line accurate to about 0.50 m.