MODELING OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ON SUBMERGED BREAKWATER

A mathematical model of wave transformation over a submerged permeable breakwater is developed on the basis of the equations for waves on a porous layer which are newly derived under the mild-slope assumption. The model equation is given as a two-dimensional elliptic equation analogous to the mild-slope equation on an impermeable bed. The model of wave breaking on a submerged permeable breakwater is proposed on the basis of the modified mild-slope equation. The validity of the model is confirmed through comparison with the experiments for a trapezoidal breakwater and with strict solution for a rectangular breakwater.