Energy dissipation model for a parametric wave approach based on laboratory and field experiments

This study was undertaken to develop a simple energy dissipation model for computing the root mean square wave height transformation. The parametric wave approach of Battjes and Janssen (1978) was used as a framework for developing the energy dissipation model. In contrast to the common derivation, the fraction of breaking waves was not derived from the assumed probability density function of wave heights, but derived directly from the measured wave heights. The present model was verified extensively for a variety of wave and beach conditions (including small-scale, large-scale, and field experiments), and compared with four existing dissipation models. The present model gives very good accuracy for a wide range of wave and beach conditions and gives better predictions than those of existing models.

[1]  K. Iwata,et al.  Turbulence Effect on Wave Deformation After Breaking , 1974 .

[2]  Ernest R. Smith,et al.  Laboratory study on macro-features of wave breaking over bars and artificial reefs / , 1990 .

[3]  Edward B. Thornton,et al.  Surf Zone Longshore Currents and Random Waves: Field Data and Models , 1986 .

[4]  M. Miche.  Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action de la houle , 1951 .

[5]  Howard N. Southgate,et al.  DETERMINISTIC PROFILE MODELLING OF NEARSHORE PROCESSES - PART 1: WAVES AND CURRENTS , 1993 .

[6]  Tomoya Shibayama,et al.  Irregular Wave Height Transformation Using Representative Wave Approach , 2003 .

[7]  Tomoya Shibayama,et al.  Energy Dissipation Model for Regular and Irregular Breaking Waves , 1998 .

[8]  Hakeem K. Johnson,et al.  Wave modelling in the vicinity of submerged breakwaters , 2006 .

[9]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  MATHEMATICAL MODELLING OF WATER-QUALITY FOR LONG TIME PERIODS , 1984 .

[10]  Nicholas C. Kraus,et al.  SUPERTANK LABORATORY DATA COLLECTION PROJECT , 1993 .

[11]  M. Mizuguchi.  AN HEURISTIC MODEL OF WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN SURF ZONE , 1980 .

[12]  T. Baldock,et al.  Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone , 1998 .

[13]  W. Dally.  Random breaking waves: A closed-form solution for planar beaches , 1990 .

[14]  David G. Hamilton,et al.  Establishing uniform longshore currents in a large-scale sediment transport facility , 2001 .

[15]  Charles E. Long,et al.  1990 DELILAH Nearshore Experiment: Summary Report , 1997 .

[16]  R. Nairn.  Prediction of cross-shore sediment transport and beach profile evolution , 1990 .

[17]  Robert G. Dean,et al.  Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile , 1985 .

[18]  Francis C. K. Ting,et al.  Laboratory study of wave and turbulence velocities in a broad-banded irregular wave surf zone , 2001 .

[19]  B. T. Grasmeijer,et al.  Transport of Fine Sands by Currents and Waves. III: Breaking Waves over Barred Profile with Ripples , 1999 .

[20]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES , 1978 .

[21]  William A. Birkemeier,et al.  1990 DELILAH Nearshore Experiment : summary report / by William A. Birkemeier ... [et al.] ; prepared for U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and Office of Naval Research. , 1997 .