Surf zone hydrodynamics

II-4-2. Surf Zone Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-1 a. Incipient wave breaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-1 (1) Breaker type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-1 (2) Breaker criteria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-3 (3) Regular waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-3 (4) Irregular waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-4 b. Wave transformation in the surf zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-5 (1) Similarity method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-5 (2) Energy flux method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-6 (3) Irregular waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-8 (4) Waves over reefs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II-4-10

[1]  Edward B. Thornton,et al.  Swash oscillations on a natural beach , 1982 .

[2]  W. Dally.  Random breaking waves: Field verification of a wave-by-wave algorithm for engineering application , 1992 .

[3]  J. M. Smith,et al.  Parametric Description for a Wave Energy Spectrum in the Surf Zone , 1991 .

[4]  Edward B. Thornton,et al.  Transformation of wave height distribution , 1983 .

[5]  A. Barcilon,et al.  Hydrodynamic instability in the surf zone as a mechanism for the formation of horizontal gyres , 1978 .

[6]  L. Wright,et al.  Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis , 1984 .

[7]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES , 1978 .

[8]  Ernest R. Smith,et al.  Laboratory Study of Wave-Breaking Over Bars and Artificial Reefs , 1991 .

[9]  H. G. Wind,et al.  Cross-shore mean flow in the surf zone , 1986 .

[10]  J R Houston,et al.  Erosion Control of Scour during Construction. Report 6. FINITE - A Numerical Model for Combined Refraction and Diffraction of Waves. , 1984 .

[11]  I. A. Svendsen.  Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone , 1983 .

[12]  H. G. Wind,et al.  Rip-current generation near structures , 1986, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[13]  D. Inman,et al.  Longshore sand transport on beaches , 1970 .

[14]  Y. Goda.  A SYNTHESIS OF BREAKER INDICES , 1970 .

[15]  Michael H. Freilich,et al.  Observations of Nonlinear Effects in Directional Spectra of Shoaling Gravity Waves , 1990 .

[16]  B. Gallagher.  Generation of surf beat by non-linear wave interactions , 1971, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[17]  C. Galvin.  Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches , 1968 .

[18]  Robert A. Holman,et al.  Setup and swash on a natural beach , 1985 .

[19]  P. Leblond,et al.  On energy coupling between waves and rip currents , 1974 .

[20]  Douglas L. Inman,et al.  Rip currents: 2. Laboratory and field observations , 1969 .

[21]  D. Divoky,et al.  BREAKING WAVE SETUP AND DECAY ON GENTLE SLOPES , 1970 .

[22]  P. Nielsen,et al.  Wave Runup Distributions on Natural Beaches , 1991 .

[23]  W. Munk.  THE SOLITARY WAVE THEORY AND ITS APPLICATION TO SURF PROBLEMS , 1949 .

[24]  A. Scott.  THE SOLITARY WAVE , 1990 .

[25]  D. J. Divoky,et al.  Breaking waves on gentle slopes , 1970 .

[26]  Chiang C. Mei,et al.  Effects of topography on the circulation in and near the surf zone—Linear theory , 1977 .

[27]  B. Ebersole.  Measurement and Prediction of Wave Height Decay in the Surf Zone , 1987 .

[28]  J. Buhr Hansen,et al.  A Theoretical and Experimental Study of Undertow , 1984 .

[29]  M. Gourlay.  NON-UNIFORM ALONGSHORE CURRENTS , 1976 .

[30]  Michael H. Freilich,et al.  Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves , 1984, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[31]  Anthony J. Bowen,et al.  Rip currents: 1. Theoretical investigations , 1969 .

[32]  D. Huntley,et al.  Long Wave Generation by a Time-Varying Breakpoint , 1982 .

[33]  T. Walton,et al.  Criteria for Evaluating Coastal Flood-Protection Structures , 1989 .

[34]  Michael K. Gaughan,et al.  AIRY WAVE THEORY AND BREAKER HEIGHT PREDICTION , 1972 .

[35]  R. Dalrymple,et al.  Numerical Modelling of Nearshore Circulation , 1980 .

[36]  T. Walton.  Interim guidance for prediction of wave run-up on beaches , 1992 .

[37]  M. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ‘surf beats’ , 1962, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[38]  E. Noda.  Wave‐induced nearshore circulation , 1974 .

[39]  C. Linwood Vincent,et al.  FRF Spectrum: TMA with Kitaigorodskii's f-4 Scaling , 1990 .

[40]  Hajime Mase,et al.  Spectral characteristics of random wave run-up , 1988 .

[41]  M. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications , 1964 .

[42]  Robert A. Holman,et al.  Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach , 1986 .

[43]  Y. Goda.  Irregular Wave Deformation in the Surf Zone , 1975 .

[44]  Nicholas C. Kraus,et al.  Numerical Model of Longshore Current for Bar and Trough Beaches , 1991 .

[45]  E. Thornton.  VARIATION OP LONGSHORE CURRENT ACROSS THE SURF ZONE , 1970 .

[46]  M. Gourlay,et al.  WAVE SET-UP AND WAVE GENERATED CURRENTS IN THE LEE OF A BREAKWATER OR HEADLAND , 1974 .

[47]  Hajime Mase,et al.  Random wave runup height on gentle slope , 1989 .

[48]  M. Miche.  Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action de la houle , 1951 .

[49]  Hunt,et al.  Design of Seawalls and Breakwaters , 1959 .

[50]  David A. Huntley,et al.  Long‐period waves on a natural beach , 1976 .

[51]  R. Dalrymple,et al.  NEARSHORE WATER CIRCULATION INDUCED BY WIND AND WAVES. , 1975 .

[52]  R. P. Savage.  Wave Run-Up On Roughened And Permeable Slopes , 1958 .

[53]  Choule J. Sonu,et al.  Field observation of nearshore circulation and meandering currents , 1972 .

[54]  C. Kuo,et al.  The Effect of Wave Breaking on the Statistical Distribution of Wave Heights , 1975 .

[55]  W. Mcdougal,et al.  Wave setup/setdown and longshore current on non-planar beaches , 1983 .

[56]  W. Dally.  Random breaking waves: A closed-form solution for planar beaches , 1990 .

[57]  H. W. Iversen.  WAVES AND BREAKERS IN SHOALING WATER , 2000 .

[58]  K. Hathaway,et al.  Infragravity Energy and Its Implications in Nearshore Sediment Transport and Sandbar Dynamics , 2019 .

[59]  P. Visser.  Laboratory measurements of uniform longshore currents , 1991 .

[60]  I. A. Svendsen,et al.  The interaction between the undertow and the boundary layer flow on a beach , 1987 .

[61]  J. A. Battjes.  SET-UP DUE TO IRREGULAR WAVES , 1972 .

[62]  R. Dean,et al.  Suspended Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Evolution , 1984 .

[63]  Richard J. Weggel.  MAXIMUM BREAKER HEIGHT , 1972 .

[64]  P. Komar.  Beach-Slope Dependence of Longshore Currents , 1979 .

[65]  Robert G. Dean,et al.  Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile , 1985 .

[66]  T. Hardy,et al.  Modelling Spectral Wave Transformation on a Coral Reef Flat , 1991 .

[67]  T. Sunamura.  A LABORATORY STUDY OF OFFSHORE TRANSPORT OF SEDIMENT AND A MODEL FOR ERODING BEACHES , 1980 .

[68]  Anthony,et al.  The Generation of Longshore Currents on a Plane Beach , 2022 .

[69]  I. A. Svendsen,et al.  WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE , 1978 .

[70]  Edward B. Thornton,et al.  Surf Zone Longshore Currents and Random Waves: Field Data and Models , 1986 .

[71]  I. Young.  Wave transformation over coral reefs , 1989 .

[72]  T. Sørensen,et al.  SOME SAND TRANSPORT PHENOMENA OH COASTS WITH BARS , 1970 .