The Spaces and Places of Swedish Fashion

Fashion companies are involved not only in producing material commodities (clothes), but also in the parallel production of ideas (fashion). The consistent use of outsourcing in the fashion industry means that material production is constantly on the move to low-cost locations. Still high-cost countries have managed to retain a sizable presence in the world of fashion. For firms in such countries, the creation of value and profitability commonly rests on the ability to produce innovative design, brand value, efficient marketing channels, logistics and distribution. Sweden, for instance, plays host to a range of fashion firms: from the multinational giant Hennes & Mauritz to small innovative designers. This creates an interesting strategic problem for firms: why root knowledge intensive functions in Sweden when customers are mainly found in distant export markets? What localized knowledge processes, networks and other factors make these firms keep their home base in Sweden? The article suggests that both spatial proximity and the role of place are important to answering these questions. In conclusion, three main findings are discussed: that the Swedish fashion cluster is not based on high-tech but it is nevertheless knowledge intensive; that fashion has a multifaceted relationship with space and is produced under conditions simultaneously characterized by both localization and globalization; that place does play a distinct role in processes of fashion branding and more generally in the creation of immaterial value.

[1]  Lars Coenen Faraway, so Close! The Changing Geographies of Regional Innovation , 2006 .

[2]  Sally Anne Weller,et al.  Fashion's Influence on Garment Mass Production : Knowledge, Commodities and the Capture of Value , 2004 .

[3]  A. Malmberg,et al.  Guest Editorial , 1999 .

[4]  Anders Malmberg,et al.  Industrial geography: location and learning , 1997 .

[5]  Diana Crane,et al.  Diffusion Models and Fashion: A Reassessment , 1999 .

[6]  Angela McRobbie,et al.  British Fashion Design: Rag Trade or Image Industry? , 1998 .

[7]  Björn Asheim,et al.  Industrial districts as ‘learning regions’. A condition for prosperity? , 1996 .

[8]  Allen J. Scott,et al.  The Culture Economy of Paris , 2000 .

[9]  N. Wrigley,et al.  Host economy impacts of transnational retail: the research agenda , 2007 .

[10]  G. Gereffi,et al.  Commodity Chains and Global Capitalism , 1994 .

[11]  D. Power,et al.  No Man's Brand—Brands, Institutions, and Fashion , 2008 .

[12]  Irving L. Janis,et al.  Stress, Attitudes, and Decisions: Selected Papers , 1982 .

[13]  Robert Murray Haig,et al.  Toward an Understanding of the Metropolis: I. Some Speculations Regarding the Economic Basis of Urban Concentration , 1926 .

[14]  N. Rantisi The designer in the city and the city in the designer , 2004 .

[15]  M. Porter The Competitive Advantage Of Nations , 1990 .

[16]  Bj⊘rn Asheim,et al.  Face-to-Face, Buzz, and Knowledge Bases: Sociospatial Implications for Learning, Innovation, and Innovation Policy , 2007 .

[17]  Bengt-Åke Lundvall,et al.  National Systems of Innovation: towards a theory of innovation and interactive learning London: Pint , 1995 .

[18]  D. Leslie Gender, Retail Employment and the Clothing Commodity Chain , 2002 .

[19]  D. Power,et al.  No man’s brand : brands, institutions, fashion and the economy , 2006 .

[20]  A. Malmberg,et al.  Local embeddedness and international competitiveness – the case of the Swedish music cluster , 2003 .

[21]  Sally A. Weller The Embeddedness of Global Production Networks: The Impact of Crisis in Fiji's Garment Export Sector , 2006 .

[22]  P. Dicken Global Shift: Transforming the World Economy , 2000 .

[23]  D. Meadows-Klue The Tipping Point: How Little Things Can Make a Big Difference , 2004 .

[24]  H. Molotch,et al.  Urban Fortunes: The Political Economy of Place , 1987 .

[25]  N. Wrigley,et al.  Introduction: Transnational retail and the global economy , 2007 .

[26]  Allen J. Scott,et al.  Competitive Dynamics of Southern California's Clothing Industry: The Widening Global Connection and its Local Ramifications , 2002 .

[27]  R. Caves Contracts Between Art and Commerce , 2003 .

[28]  Joseph H. Hancock Fashion Brands: Branding Style from Armani to Zara , 2006 .

[29]  A. Malmberg,et al.  Localized learning revisited , 2006 .

[30]  Peter Maskell,et al.  Localized Learning and Industrial Competitiveness , 1995 .

[31]  Louise Crewe,et al.  Geographies of retailing and consumption , 2000 .

[32]  A. Scott,et al.  Cultural Industries and the Production of Culture , 2004 .

[33]  M. Hassler The global clothing production system: commodity chains and business networks , 2003 .

[34]  Jonathan V. Beaverstock,et al.  Fashioning the city: Cultures of consumption in contemporary urban spaces , 1998 .

[35]  P. Dicken Global Shift: Reshaping the Global Economic Map in the 21st Century , 2003 .

[36]  K. Seltman Marketing for management. , 2004, Marketing health services.

[37]  Allen J. Scott The Cultural Economy of Paris , 2005 .

[38]  Dominic Power,et al.  “Cultural Industries” in Sweden: An Assessment of their Place in the Swedish Economy* , 2002 .

[39]  Lars Coenen,et al.  Face-to-Face, Buzz and Knowledge Bases: Socio-spatial implications for learning and innovation policy , 2005 .

[40]  A. Hauge Dedicated Followers of Fashion An Economic Geographic Analysis of the Swedish Fashion Industry , 2007 .

[41]  Anders Malmberg,et al.  Industrial geography: agglomeration and local milieu , 1996 .

[42]  Teri Agins,et al.  The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever , 1999 .

[43]  L. Crewe The besieged body: geographies of retailing and consumption , 2001 .

[44]  A. Malmberg,et al.  True clusters: A severe case of conceptual headache , 2006 .

[45]  Erhard Berner Poverty Alleviation and the Eviction of the Poorest: Towards Urban Land Reform in the Philippines∗ , 2000 .

[46]  P. Dicken,et al.  Global Shift: Mapping the Changing Contours of the World Economy (6th ed.). By Peter Dicken , 2007 .

[47]  Walter Santagata Creativity, fashion and market behavior , 2004 .

[48]  Norma M. Rantisi,et al.  The Competitive Foundations of Localized Learning and Innovation: The Case of Women’s Garment Production in New York City* , 2002 .

[49]  A. Scott The Cultural Economy of Cities: Essays on the Geography of Image-Producing Industries , 2000 .

[50]  A. Ainamo,et al.  The Coevolution of New Organizational Forms in the Fashion Industry: a Historical and Comparative Study of France, Italy, and the United States , 1999 .

[51]  David Gilbert 1 From Paris to Shanghai: The Changing Geographies of Fashion's World Cities , 2006 .

[52]  R. Haig Toward an Understanding of the Metropolis: II. The Assignment of Activities to Areas in Urban Regions , 1926 .

[53]  Norma M. Rantisi,et al.  The Local Innovation System as a Source of 'Variety': Openness and Adaptability in New York City's Garment District , 2002 .

[54]  Sally A. Weller Fashion as viscous knowledge: Fashion's role in shaping trans-national garment production , 2007 .