SHOCK PRESSURE OF BREAKING WAVES
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Most of you have observed waves breaking against rocks or structures, and have noted that water is frequently thrown high in the air. The pressure required to project water in a vertical direction is about one half pound per square inch for each foot of height. We may therefore expect to find substantial pressure involved in the mechanics of a wave breaking against a structure.
[1] R. Bagnold,et al. Interim report on wave-pressure research , 1939 .
[2] P. Besson,et al. État actuel des études internationales sur les efforts dus aux lames , 1938 .