TRANSFORMATION OF REGULAR WAVES

Results are presented from calculations for shoaling waves using a development of Dean's non-linear stream function which display better agreement with previous experimental data for parallel waves in shallow water than other currently available theories. The results are presented in a manner suitable for design applications. In addition to wave height evaluation, curves have been given to aid the prediction of other parameters of design interest, such as crest elevation and horizontal water particle velocity. It is demonstrated that the stream function series type of solution is particularly suitable for this application, because the integral wave properties required for shoaling predictions may be obtained directly from the stream function solution, without performing integrations in the body of one wave. It is also shown that the conservation of wave action flux and wave energy flux lead to identical results in terms of wave shoaling predictions.