Prediction of cross-shore sediment transport at different spatial and temporal scales

Abstract Coastal sediment transport and associated morphological change can be examined at many spatial and temporal scales. These scales range from instantaneous movement of single grains on a time scale of the local turbulence to seasonal and long-term movement of large sand bodies such as longshore bars and tidal deltas. Researchers have begun to recognize that a first-principles (microscale) approach to calculating long-term and large-scale (megascale) coastal change may not be possible or even adequate. Therefore, new approaches are being sought to advance quantitative understanding and prediction of large-scale coastal behavior. The present paper opens with a discussion of compatible spatial and temporal scales for calculating sediment transport and morphology change. Motivation is given for the need to calculate morphologic change at scales greater than the typical one of microscale. Example calculations are made at different scales, showing the assumptions and approximations of each. The main conclusion is that calculations at different scales can be related and reconciled if limitations in prediction of initial and boundary conditions and in the fluid forcing are recognized.

[1]  N. Kraus,et al.  DYNAMICS OF LONGSHORE BARS , 1993 .

[2]  William A. Birkemeier,et al.  Beach and nearshore survey data : 1985-1991 CERC Field Research Facility / by Guan-hong Lee, William A. Birkemeier, Coastal Engineering Research Center ; prepared for U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. , 1993 .

[3]  N. Kraus,et al.  Mathematical modeling of the fate of beach fill , 1991 .

[4]  R. Bagnold An approach to the sediment transport problem from general physics , 1966 .

[5]  I. A. Svendsen,et al.  WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE , 1978 .

[6]  H. D. Vriend,et al.  Mathematical modelling and large-scale coastal behaviour , 1991 .

[7]  P. Bruun Coast Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles , 1954 .

[8]  Paul D. Komar,et al.  Beach Processes and Sedimentation , 1976 .

[9]  R. Deigaard,et al.  Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles , 1991 .

[10]  B. Latteux,et al.  Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology : A review , 1993 .

[11]  M. N. Hill,et al.  The sea: ideas and observations on progress in the study of the seas , 1963 .

[12]  H. D. Vriend,et al.  Mathematical modelling and large-scale coastal behaviour: Part 2: Predictive models , 1991 .

[13]  Ole Secher Madsen,et al.  Mechanics of Cohesionless Sediment Transport in Coastal Waters , 1991 .

[14]  A. Watanabe Numerical Models of Nearshore Currents and Beach Deformation , 1982 .

[15]  Robert L. Miller Role of Vortices in Surf Zone Prediction: Sedimentation and Wave Forces , 1987 .

[16]  R. Dean,et al.  Suspended Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Evolution , 1984 .

[17]  H. N. Southgate,et al.  INTERCOMPARISON OF COASTAL PROFILE MODELS , 1993 .

[18]  Robert G. Dean,et al.  Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach and dune erosion , 1985 .

[19]  Nicholas C. Kraus,et al.  SBEACH: Numerical Model for Simulating Storm-Induced Beach Change. Report 2. Numerical Formulation and Model Tests , 1990 .

[20]  Donald K. Stauble,et al.  Beach Nourishment Engineering and Management Considerations , 1993 .

[21]  R. Seymour Nearshore sediment transport , 1989 .

[22]  A. Watanabe,et al.  Field Application of a Numerical Model of Beach Topography Change , 1991 .

[23]  Nicholas C. Kraus,et al.  Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictors , 1991 .

[24]  James A. Bailard,et al.  An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach , 1981 .

[25]  David L. Kriebel,et al.  Engineering Methods for Predicting Beach Profile Response , 1991 .

[26]  H. Steetzel A Model for Profile Changes During Storm Surges , 1991 .

[27]  Nicholas C. Kraus,et al.  Temporal and spatial scales of beach profile change, Duck, North Carolina , 1994 .

[28]  J. Skjelbreia Observations of breaking waves on sloping bottoms by use of laser Doppler velocimetry , 1986 .

[29]  P. Bruun Sea-Level Rise as a Cause of Shore Erosion , 1962 .

[30]  J. A. Roelvink,et al.  Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach Barre provoquant des mecanismes d' ecoulement perpendiculaires a la plage , 1989 .

[31]  Howard N. Southgate,et al.  DETERMINISTIC PROFILE MODELLING OF NEARSHORE PROCESSES - PART 1: WAVES AND CURRENTS , 1993 .

[32]  H. N. Southgate,et al.  DETERMINISTIC PROFILE MODELLING OF NEARSHORE PROCESSES - PART 2: SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND BEACH PROFILE DEVELOPMENT , 1993 .

[33]  A J Bowen,et al.  Simple Models of Nearshore Sedimentation, Beach Profiles and Longshore Bars , 1980 .

[34]  Z. Pruszak,et al.  Modelling Large-Scale Coast Evolution , 1994 .