Operational Definitions*

Arisaid – a long garment reaching from neck to ankles, pleated and fastened at the breast with a large brooch or buckle, and belted at the waist; worn by Scottish Highland women (Bain, 1954; Stewart, 1974). Balloon hat –a hat style that women wore after 1740; also known as a lunardi (Maxwell & Hutchison, 1958). *Belted plaid – a Scottish Highland male garment created from a piece of tartan two yards in width and six yards in length. A man would center the plaid over a belt laid on the ground; he would then pleat the lower section of the plaid, while leaving the side and upper sections unpleated. The belt was fastened at the waist and the unpleated upper section of the plaid was thrown over one shoulder and held in place with a brooch. Also called a breacan-feile (Bain, 1954; Wilson, 1990). Bicorne hat – man’s hat of the Napoleonic era in shape of a crescent, with front and back brims pressed against each other making points on either side. Frequently trimmed with a cockade (Calasibetta, 1998). *Bonnet – headcovering for women, children, and infants usually fitting over back and top of head and tying with strings under chin. Bonnets were first worn in the Middle Ages. Worn primarily outdoors from 1800 to 1830. More popular than hats until about 1870. A flat bonnet was also worn by males in Scotland from medieval times until the 19 century; the bonnet was a small sized tam, usually made from blue wool with a narrow tartan band fitting around the head and long black streamers hanging in back; a pompom or cockade often accompanied the bonnet (Calasibetta, 1998). Box coat – a square topcoat with a shawl collar that appeared in the late 1830s for males (Russel, 1983; Tortora & Eubank, 1998). *Breeches early medieval term for trousers. From late 14 to early 16 centuries used to indicate upper part of hose fitting trunk of body. In 16 century upper part of breech was of contrasting color of fabric. From 16 century on referred to as breeches,