Simulation of breaking waves using the high-order spectral method with laboratory experiments: Wave-breaking onset

Abstract This study investigates a wave-breaking onset criteria to be implemented in the non-linear potential flow solver HOS-NWT. The model is a computationally efficient, open source code, which solves for the free surface in a numerical wave tank using the High-Order Spectral (HOS) method. The goal of this study is to determine the best method to identify the onset of random single and multiple breaking waves over a large domain at the exact time they occur. To identify breaking waves, a breaking onset criteria based on the ratio of local energy flux velocity to the local crest velocity, introduced by Barthelemy et al. (2017) is selected. The breaking parameter is uniquely applied in the numerical model in that calculations of the breaking onset criteria ratio are not made only at the location of the wave crest, but at every point in the domain and at every time step. This allows the model to calculate the onset of a breaking wave the moment it happens, and without knowing anything about the wave a priori. The application of the breaking criteria at every point in the domain and at every time step requires the phase velocity to be calculated instantaneously everywhere in the domain and at every time step. This is achieved by calculating the instantaneous phase velocity using the Hilbert transform and dispersion relation. A comparison between more traditional crest-tracking techniques shows the calculation of phase velocity using Hilbert transform at the location of the breaking wave crest provides a good approximation of crest velocity. The ability of the selected wave breaking criteria to predict single and multiple breaking events in two dimensions is validated by a series of large-scale experiments. Breaking waves are generated by energy focusing and modulational instability methods, with a wide range of primary frequencies. Steep irregular waves which lead to breaking waves, and irregular waves with an energy focusing wave superimposed are also generated. This set of waves provides a wide range of breaking-wave strengths, types and scales for validation of the model. A comparison of calculations made using HOS-NWT with experimental measurements show that the model is successful at predicting the occurrence of wave breaking, as well as accurately calculating breaking onset time and location. Although the current study is limited to a unidirectional wave field, the success of the wave-breaking model presented provides the basis for application of the model in a multidirectional wave field. By including wave breaking onset with the addition of an appropriate energy dissipation model into HOS-NWT, we can increase the application range of the model, as well as decrease the occurrence of numerical instabilities that are associated with breaking waves in a potential flow solver. An accurate description of the wave field is useful for predicting the dynamic response of offshore vessels and marine renewable energy devices, predicting loads on marine structures and the general physics of ocean waves, for example.