WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTIONS IN SHALLOW WATERS
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In shallow waters the wave height distribution significantly differs from Rayleigh distribution during extreme wind
conditions. The EurOtop manual (Pullen et al. 2007) recommends the use of a composite Rayleigh-Weibull distribution proposed by Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) in order to describe the wave statistics in shallow waters. A test of this recommendation by using wave measurements with continuously operated radar level gauges at three different sites at the German North Sea coast for comparison revealed the necessity for a change in the parameterization given in the EurOtop manual.
References
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Battjes, J.A., and H.W. Groenendijk. 2000. Wave height distributions on shallow foreshores, Coastal Engineering, 40, 161-182. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00007-7
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Pullen, T., N.W.H. Allsop, T. Bruce, A. Kortenhaus, H. Schuttrumpf, and J.W. van der Meer. 2007. EurOtop – Wave Overtopping of Sea Defences and Related Structures: Assessment Manual, Die Kuste, 73, 193 pp. (online:
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[3] Die Küste,et al. Die Küste, 73 EurOtop (2007), 1-178 , 2008 .
[4] J. A. Battjes,et al. Wave height distributions on shallow foreshores , 2000 .
[5] M. Stive,et al. Extreme waves and wave loading in shallow water , 1989 .