The role of wave height, period, slope, tide range and embaymentisation in beach classifications: A review

This paper reviews recent developments in the classification of beach systems and in particular the contribution of wave height and period. sand size. beach slope, tide range and embaymentisation to beach type and morphodynamics. The review begins with the micro-tidal. single bar, beach model of Wright and Short ( 19S4) which is solely dependent on wave height, period and grain size (sediment fall velocity). More recent research has modified this model to accommodate a wider range of beach environments including multiple bars. high tide ranges and embayed beaches. In multi-bar beach systems beach slope and wave period are critical to determining bar number. In areas of increasing tide range the ratio of tide range to wave height, the relative tide range. can he used to classify tide dominated beach types and the transition to tide flats. When beaches are hounded by headlands or structures, the ratio of the shoreline to embayment chord length, can be used of classify three beach systems ranging from normal to topographically dominated beaches. The original single bar beach model, together with these modifications now make it possible to classify all open coast beach systems. and to predict beach type based on the relevant wave. sand. slope. tide and embayment parameters.

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