Forcing a Three-Dimensional, Hydrostatic Primitive-Equation Model for Application in the Surf Zone.

[1] A three-dimensional primitive-equation model for application to the nearshore surf zone has been developed. This model, an extension of the Princeton Ocean Model (POM), predicts the wave-averaged circulation forced by breaking waves. All of the features of the original POM are retained in the extended model so that applications can be made to regions where breaking waves, stratification, rotation, and wind stress make significant contributions to the flow behavior. In this study we examine the effects of breaking waves and wind stress. The nearshore POM circulation model is embedded within the NearCom community model and is coupled with a wave model. This combined modeling system is applied to the nearshore surf zone off Duck, North Carolina, during the DUCK94 field experiment of October 1994. Model results are compared to observations from this experiment, and the effects of parameter choices are examined. A process study examining the effects of tidal depth variation on depth-dependent wave-averaged currents is carried out. With identical offshore wave conditions and model parameters, the strength and spatial structure of the undertow and of the alongshore current vary systematically with water depth. Some three-dimensional solutions show the development of shear instabilities of the alongshore current. Inclusion of wave-current interactions makes an appreciable difference in the characteristics of the instability.

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