Can swell increase the number of freak waves in a wind sea?

The effect of a swell on the statistical distribution of a directional short-wave field is investigated. Starting from Zakharov's spectral formulation, we derive a new modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation appropriate for the nonlinear evolution of a narrow-banded spectrum of short waves influenced by a swell. The swell-modified equation is solved analytically to yield an extended version of the result of Longuet-Higgins & Stewart (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 8, no. 4, 1960, pp. 565–583) for the modulation of a short wave riding on a longer wave. Numerical Monte Carlo simulations of the long-term evolution of a spectrum of short waves in the presence of a monochromatic swell are employed to extract statistical distributions of freak waves among the short waves. We find evidence that a realistic short-crested wind sea can on average experience a small increase in freak wave probability because of a swell provided the swell is not orthogonal to the wind waves. For orthogonal swell and wind waves we find evidence that there is almost no significant change in the probability of freak waves in the wind sea. If the short waves are unrealistically long crested, such that the Benjamin–Feir index serves as indicator for freak waves (Gramstad & Trulsen, J. Fluid Mech., vol. 582, 2007, pp. 463–472), it appears that the swell has much smaller relative influence on the probability of freak waves than in the short-crested case.

[1]  C. Mei,et al.  Evolution of a short surface wave on a very long surface wave of finite amplitude , 1992, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[2]  Karsten Trulsen,et al.  NOTE ON BREATHER TYPE SOLUTIONS OF THE NLS AS MODELS FOR FREAK-WAVES , 1999 .

[3]  Vladimir P. Krasitskii,et al.  On reduced equations in the Hamiltonian theory of weakly nonlinear surface waves , 1994, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[4]  F. Henyey,et al.  The energy and action of small waves riding on large waves , 1988, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[5]  A. Osborne,et al.  Modulational instability in crossing sea states: a possible mechanism for the formation of freak waves. , 2006, Physical review letters.

[6]  T. Waseda Impact of directionality on the extreme wave occurrence in a discrete random wave system , 2006 .

[7]  Miguel Onorato,et al.  Extreme wave events in directional, random oceanic sea states , 2001, nlin/0106004.

[8]  M. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents , 1960, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[9]  Peter A. E. M. Janssen,et al.  Nonlinear Four-Wave Interactions and Freak Waves , 2003 .

[10]  W. Melville,et al.  On the stability of weakly nonlinear short waves on finite-amplitude long gravity waves , 1992, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[11]  C. Mei,et al.  Evolution of short gravity waves on long gravity waves , 1993 .

[12]  I. E. Alber,et al.  The effects of randomness on the stability of two-dimensional surface wavetrains , 1978, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[13]  C. Mei,et al.  Two-dimensional modulation and instability of a short wave riding on a finite-amplitude long wave , 1994 .

[14]  P. A. Madsen,et al.  Numerical simulation of lowest-order short-crested wave instabilities , 2006, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[15]  C. Stansberg EFFECTS FROM DIRECTIONALITY AND SPECTRAL BANDWIDTH ON NON-LINEAR SPATIAL MODULATIONS OF DEEP-WATER SURFACE GRAVITY WAVE TRAINS , 1995 .

[16]  Karsten Trulsen,et al.  Influence of crest and group length on the occurrence of freak waves , 2007, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[17]  A. Craik Interction of a short-wave field with a dominant long wave in deep water: derivation form Zakharov's spectral formulation , 1988, The Journal of the Australian Mathematical Society. Series B. Applied Mathematics.

[18]  M. Stiassnie,et al.  Sea-swell interaction as a mechanism for the generation of freak waves , 2008 .

[19]  Michael Stiassnie,et al.  Note on the modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation for deep water waves , 1984 .

[20]  B. Herbst,et al.  Split-step methods for the solution of the nonlinear Schro¨dinger equation , 1986 .

[21]  C. Mei,et al.  Slow evolution of nonlinear deep water waves in two horizontal directions: A numerical study , 1987 .

[22]  Jaak Monbaliu,et al.  Towards the identification of warning criteria: Analysis of a ship accident database , 2005 .

[23]  Karsten Trulsen,et al.  A modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation for broader bandwidth gravity waves on deep water , 1996 .

[24]  Harald E. Krogstad,et al.  Oceanic Rogue Waves , 2008 .

[25]  M. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  The propagation of short surface waves on longer gravity waves , 1987, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[26]  Luigi Cavaleri,et al.  Statistical properties of mechanically generated surface gravity waves: a laboratory experiment in a three-dimensional wave basin , 2009, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[27]  W. K. Melville,et al.  Evolution of weakly nonlinear short waves riding on long gravity waves , 1990, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[28]  T. Waseda,et al.  Freakish sea state and swell‐windsea coupling: Numerical study of the Suwa‐Maru incident , 2009 .

[29]  Chiang C. Mei,et al.  A numerical study of water-wave modulation based on a higher-order nonlinear Schrödinger equation , 1985, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[30]  K. Dysthe,et al.  Probability distributions of surface gravity waves during spectral changes , 2005, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[31]  Diane Masson On the Nonlinear Coupling between Swell and Wind Waves , 1993 .

[32]  C T Stansberg,et al.  Observation of strongly non-Gaussian statistics for random sea surface gravity waves in wave flume experiments. , 2004, Physical review. E, Statistical, nonlinear, and soft matter physics.

[33]  L Stenflo,et al.  Instability and evolution of nonlinearly interacting water waves. , 2006, Physical review letters.

[34]  C T Stansberg,et al.  Statistical properties of directional ocean waves: the role of the modulational instability in the formation of extreme events. , 2009, Physical review letters.

[35]  Vladimir E. Zakharov,et al.  Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid , 1968 .

[36]  R. Grimshaw The modulation of short gravity waves by long waves or currents , 1988, The Journal of the Australian Mathematical Society. Series B. Applied Mathematics.

[37]  N. Akhmediev,et al.  Waves that appear from nowhere and disappear without a trace , 2009 .

[38]  A. Osborne,et al.  Freak waves in random oceanic sea states. , 2001, Physical review letters.