Cross-shore profile models

Abstract This paper aims at describing the state of the art in modelling of cross-shore profile evolution. After a discussion of various classes of models concepts, attention is focused on process-based models. Various transport concepts used in process-based models are compared in relation with the dominant processes to be modelled. The demands on the hydrodynamic components of the models are discussed, and available hydrodynamic models are evaluated in this context. Results are presented of an intercomparison of five morphodynamic models operational in Europe, in the framework of MAST-G6M. Individual strong points and common weak spots are identified. The latter lead to recommendations on further research.

[1]  J. A. Roelvink,et al.  Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach , 1993 .

[2]  Jørgen Fredsøe,et al.  Modelling of undertow by a one-equation turbulence model , 1991 .

[3]  John D. Fenton,et al.  A Fourier approximation method for steady water waves , 1981, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[4]  O. H. Andersen,et al.  Distribution of suspended sediment in large waves , 1985 .

[5]  R. Nairn Prediction of cross-shore sediment transport and beach profile evolution , 1990 .

[6]  A MODEL FOR CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT , 1986 .

[7]  Edward B. Thornton,et al.  Transformation of wave height distribution , 1983 .

[8]  Henk J. Steetzel Cross-shore Transport during Storm Surges , 1993 .

[9]  James A. Bailard,et al.  An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach , 1981 .

[10]  D. Howell Peregrine,et al.  Low frequency waves in the surf zone , 1993 .

[11]  R. Bagnold An approach to the sediment transport problem from general physics , 1966 .

[12]  D. H. Peregrine,et al.  Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore , 1979, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[13]  Hunter Rouse,et al.  Experiments on the Mechanics of Sediment Suspension , 1939 .

[14]  M. Stive,et al.  Quasi-3D Modelling of Nearshore Currents , 1987 .

[15]  J. M. Janin,et al.  TELEMAC-3D: A Finite Element Code to Solve 3D Free Surface Flow Problems , 1992 .

[16]  Choule J. Sonu,et al.  Three-Dimensional Beach Changes , 1973, The Journal of Geology.

[17]  R. Deigaard,et al.  Onshore/Offshore Sediment Transport and Morphological Modelling of Coastal Profiles , 1991 .

[18]  Pier Vellinga,et al.  Beach and dune erosion during storm surges , 1982 .

[19]  A. Short WAVE POWER AND BEACH-STAGES: A GLOBAL MODEL , 1978 .

[20]  Jørgen Fredsøe,et al.  A Sediment Transport Model for Straight Alluvial Channels , 1976 .

[21]  James R. Walker,et al.  HONOLULU REEF RUNWAY DIKE , 1970 .

[22]  P. A. Madsen,et al.  Wave transformation in the nearshore zone: A review , 1993 .

[23]  B. Latteux,et al.  Approaches to long-term modelling of coastal morphology : A review , 1993 .

[24]  Marcel J. F. Stive,et al.  A Model for Offshore Sediment Transport , 1984 .

[25]  L. Wright,et al.  Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis , 1984 .

[26]  H. N. Southgate,et al.  INTERCOMPARISON OF COASTAL PROFILE MODELS , 1993 .

[27]  J. A. Roelvink,et al.  Modelling of Cross-Shore Flow and Morphology , 1991 .

[28]  D. Swart,et al.  VOCOIDAL THEORY FOR ALL NON-BREAKING WAVES , 1978 .

[29]  Robert G. Dean,et al.  Wave height variation across beaches of arbitrary profile , 1985 .

[30]  Robert G. Dean,et al.  Equilibrium Beach Profiles: Characteristics and Applications , 1991 .

[31]  Edward B. Thornton,et al.  Velocity moments in nearshore , 1985 .

[32]  Robert G. Dean,et al.  Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach and dune erosion , 1985 .

[33]  Magnus Larson,et al.  Quantification of beach profile change , 1988 .

[34]  P. Bruun Coast Erosion and the Development of Beach Profiles , 1954 .

[35]  W. T. Bakker,et al.  THE DYNAMICS OF A COAST WITH A GROYNE SYSTEM , 1970 .

[36]  F. Serre,et al.  CONTRIBUTION À L'ÉTUDE DES ÉCOULEMENTS PERMANENTS ET VARIABLES DANS LES CANAUX , 1953 .

[37]  R. Holman,et al.  The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology , 1990 .

[38]  G. Symonds,et al.  Numerical Simulation of Infragravity Response in the Nearshore , 1991 .

[39]  T. Edelman,et al.  Dune Erosion During Storm Conditions , 1972 .

[40]  Jørgen Fredsøe,et al.  SUSPENDED SEDIMENT IN THE SURF ZONE , 1986 .

[41]  J. Graaff,et al.  Dune erosion during a storm surge , 1977 .

[42]  R. Dean,et al.  Suspended Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Evolution , 1984 .

[43]  P. A. Madsen,et al.  A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics , 1991 .

[44]  Huib J. de Vriend,et al.  COUPLING OF A QUASI-3D MODEL FOR THE TRANSPORT WITH A QUASI-3D MODEL FOR THE WAVE INDUCED FLOW , 1993 .

[45]  J. List,et al.  A MODEL FOR THE GENERATION OF TWO-DIMENSIONAL SURF BEAT , 1992 .

[46]  W. Dally Random breaking waves: Field verification of a wave-by-wave algorithm for engineering application , 1992 .

[47]  R. Deigaard,et al.  Shear stress distribution in dissipative water waves , 1989 .

[48]  H. Schaffer,et al.  A TWO-DIMENSIONAL SURF ZONE MODEL BASED ON THE BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS , 1993 .

[49]  J. A. Roelvink,et al.  Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach Barre provoquant des mecanismes d' ecoulement perpendiculaires a la plage , 1989 .

[50]  Gert Klopman,et al.  NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF WAVE MOTION ON AND IN COASTAL STRUCTURES , 1993 .

[51]  Shinji Sato,et al.  A Numerical Model of Beach Profile Change Due to Random Waves , 1991 .

[52]  A J Bowen,et al.  Simple Models of Nearshore Sedimentation, Beach Profiles and Longshore Bars , 1980 .