Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes modelling of long waves induced by a transient wave group on a beach

This paper presents the numerical modelling of the cross shore propagation of infragravity waves induced by a transient focused short wave group over a sloping bottom. A dataset obtained through new laboratory experiments in the wave flume of the University of Cantabria is used to validate the Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes type model IH-2VOF. A new boundary condition based on the wave maker movement used in the experiments is implemented in the model. Shoaling and breaking of short waves as well as the enhancement of long waves and the energy transfer to low-frequency motion are well addressed by the model, proving the high accuracy in the reproduction of surf zone hydrodynamics. Under the steep slope regime, a long wave trough is radiated offshore from the breakpoint. Numerical simulations conducted for different bottom slopes and short wave steepness suggest that this low-frequency breakpoint generated wave is controlled by both the bed slope parameter and the Iribarren number. Moreover, the numerical model is used to investigate the influence that a large flat bottom induces on the propagation pattern of long waves.

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