ESTIMATION OF THE SIGNIFICANT WAVE HEIGHT WITH X-BAND NAUTICAL RADARS

The measurement of ocean waves and surface currents with a nautical radar is based on the spatial and temporal structure analysis of radar images of the sea surface. These radar images are generated by the interaction of HHpolarized electromagnetic waves with the sea surface ripples at grazing incidence. In these radar images the sea surface is visible as sea clutter. The spatial and temporal variability of the sea clutter information is analyzed in order to extract the unambiguous directional wave spectrum, and further sea state parameters, such as peak periods, peak wave lengths, mean directions, angular spreading, etc. . A general description of the wave and surface current monitoring system WaMoS II based on a Xband radar is given. Furthermore this work deals with a method to obtain the significant wave height from sequences of nautical radar images. The method is based on a technique developed for the determination of significant wave height information from synthetic aperture radar imagery (Alpers and Hasselmann, 1982). Results of the significant wave height inferred by WaMoS II are presented for 3 different stations located in the northern and central North Sea and in the Gulf of Biscay.

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