Chapter 46 – Skin Penetration

The cosmetic industry continues to expand worldwide. The claims described on a cosmetic product label or in promotional material must be substantiated with scientific data or clinical studies, ensuring that the product actually has the promised effect. Cosmetics must be safe to use over a long term, so safety assurance is critical. Testing the skin penetration of cosmetic actives and excipients is one example of the safety measures that are required. With the prohibition of animal testing for cosmetic evaluation in Europe, product safety has had to be assessed by in vitro methods or in vivo human studies. This has led to a new set of challenges to find and validate in vitro techniques that reliably predict in vivo human responses.

[1]  S. D. De Smedt,et al.  Flexible Nanosomes (SECosomes) Enable Efficient siRNA Delivery in Cultured Primary Skin Cells and in the Viable Epidermis of Ex Vivo Human Skin , 2010 .

[2]  K. Sathirakul,et al.  In vitro–in vivo correlation study for the dermatopharmacokinetics of terbinafine hydrochloride topical cream , 2013, Drug development and industrial pharmacy.

[3]  A. Rawlings,et al.  Stratum corneum lipids: the effect of ageing and the seasons , 1996, Archives of Dermatological Research.

[4]  N. Weiner,et al.  Relative uptake of minoxidil into appendages and stratum corneum and permeation through human skin in vitro. , 2010, Journal of pharmaceutical sciences.

[5]  H. Maibach,et al.  In vitro transepidermal water loss: differences between black and white human skin , 1988, The British journal of dermatology.

[6]  Hatem Fessi,et al.  Enhancement of Topical Delivery from Biodegradable Nanoparticles , 2004, Pharmaceutical Research.

[7]  D. Wurster,et al.  Investigation of some factors influencing percutaneous absorption. , 1961, Journal of pharmaceutical sciences.

[8]  W G Reifenrath,et al.  Evaluation of animal models for predicting skin penetration in man. , 1984, Fundamental and applied toxicology : official journal of the Society of Toxicology.

[9]  Chen-Yuan Dong,et al.  Multiphoton microscopy in dermatological imaging. , 2009, Journal of dermatological science.

[10]  P. Elias,et al.  Transepidermal water loss reflects permeability barrier status: validation in human and rodent in vivo and ex vivo models , 2006, Experimental dermatology.

[11]  H. Maibach,et al.  Percutaneous absorption in the rhesus monkey compared to man. , 1975, Toxicology and applied pharmacology.

[12]  Fiona Sewell,et al.  Testing Chemical Safety: What Is Needed to Ensure the Widespread Application of Non-animal Approaches? , 2015, PLoS biology.

[13]  V. Meidan,et al.  Validation of a Static Franz Diffusion Cell System for In Vitro Permeation Studies , 2010, AAPS PharmSciTech.

[14]  J. Riviere,et al.  Predicting skin permeability from complex chemical mixtures. , 2005, Toxicology and applied pharmacology.

[15]  José Juan Escobar-Chávez,et al.  The tape-stripping technique as a method for drug quantification in skin. , 2008, Journal of pharmacy & pharmaceutical sciences : a publication of the Canadian Society for Pharmaceutical Sciences, Societe canadienne des sciences pharmaceutiques.

[16]  O. Čudina,et al.  A PAMPA Assay as Fast Predictive Model of Passive Human Skin Permeability of New Synthesized Corticosteroid C-21 Esters , 2012, Molecules.

[17]  Y. Morimoto,et al.  Development of a membrane impregnated with a poly(dimethylsiloxane)/poly(ethylene glycol) copolymer for a high-throughput screening of the permeability of drugs, cosmetics, and other chemicals across the human skin. , 2015, European journal of pharmaceutical sciences : official journal of the European Federation for Pharmaceutical Sciences.

[18]  Howard I Maibach,et al.  Age and skin structure and function, a quantitative approach (I): blood flow, pH, thickness, and ultrasound echogenicity , 2005, Skin research and technology : official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging.

[19]  A. Fahr,et al.  Influence of massage and occlusion on the ex vivo skin penetration of rigid liposomes and invasomes. , 2014, European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics : official journal of Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur Pharmazeutische Verfahrenstechnik e.V.

[20]  H. Maibach,et al.  Percutaneous penetration of dipyrithione in man: effect of skin color (race). , 1981, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

[21]  B. van Ravenzwaay,et al.  A comparison between in vitro rat and human and in vivo rat skin absorption studies , 2004, Human & experimental toxicology.

[22]  M. Roberts,et al.  Delivery of drugs applied topically to the skin , 2012 .

[23]  Wolfgang Becker,et al.  Nanoparticles and microparticles for skin drug delivery. , 2011, Advanced drug delivery reviews.

[24]  Biana Godin,et al.  Transdermal skin delivery: predictions for humans from in vivo, ex vivo and animal models. , 2007, Advanced drug delivery reviews.

[25]  Eric W. Smith,et al.  The human skin blanching assay for in vivo topical corticosteroid assessment: I. Reproducibility of the assay , 1997 .

[26]  R. Scott,et al.  Pig Ear Skin as an In‐vitro Model for Human Skin Permeability , 1992, The Journal of pharmacy and pharmacology.

[27]  P. Farris,et al.  Under Persistent Assault: Understanding the Factors that Deteriorate Human Skin and Clinical Efficacy of Topical Antioxidants in Treating Aging Skin , 2015 .

[28]  Michael S. Roberts,et al.  Microneedle Enhanced Delivery of Cosmeceutically Relevant Peptides in Human Skin , 2014, PloS one.

[29]  J. Riviere,et al.  Predicting skin permeability from complex chemical mixtures: dependency of quantitative structure permeation relationships on biology of skin model used. , 2011, Toxicological sciences : an official journal of the Society of Toxicology.

[30]  H. Maibach,et al.  Racial differences in the in vivo percutaneous absorption of some organic compounds: a comparison between black, Caucasian and Asian subjects , 2004, Archives of Dermatological Research.

[31]  H. Benson Transfersomes for transdermal drug delivery , 2006, Expert opinion on drug delivery.

[32]  Bálint Sinkó,et al.  Skin-PAMPA: a new method for fast prediction of skin penetration. , 2012, European journal of pharmaceutical sciences : official journal of the European Federation for Pharmaceutical Sciences.

[33]  K. Nikolić,et al.  17β-carboxamide steroids--in vitro prediction of human skin permeability and retention using PAMPA technique. , 2014, European journal of pharmaceutical sciences : official journal of the European Federation for Pharmaceutical Sciences.

[34]  H. Maibach,et al.  Liposomes and Niosomes as Topical Drug Delivery Systems , 2005, Skin Pharmacology and Physiology.

[35]  Samir Mitragotri,et al.  Mathematical models of skin permeability: an overview. , 2011, International journal of pharmaceutics.

[36]  T. Franz,et al.  Use of Excised Human Skin to Assess the Bioequivalence of Topical Products , 2009, Skin Pharmacology and Physiology.

[37]  Y. Kalia,et al.  Passive skin penetration enhancement and its quantification in vitro. , 2001, European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics : official journal of Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur Pharmazeutische Verfahrenstechnik e.V.

[38]  A novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups , 2015, International journal of cosmetic science.

[39]  A. Friedman,et al.  Nanotechnology, Inflammation and the Skin Barrier: Innovative Approaches for Skin Health and Cosmesis , 2015 .

[40]  Michael Wolzt,et al.  In vitro vs. in vivo tape stripping: validation of the porcine ear model and penetration assessment of novel sucrose stearate emulsions. , 2012, European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics : official journal of Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur Pharmazeutische Verfahrenstechnik e.V.

[41]  S. Seidenari,et al.  Skin Barrier, Hydration, and pH of the Skin of Infants Under 2 Years of Age , 2001, Pediatric dermatology.

[42]  H. Benson,et al.  Transdermal drug delivery: penetration enhancement techniques. , 2005, Current drug delivery.

[43]  J. Hadgraft,et al.  Percutaneous absorption: in vivo experiments , 1979, The Journal of pharmacy and pharmacology.

[44]  H. Maibach,et al.  Physical and physiological effects of stratum corneum tape stripping , 2001, Skin research and technology : official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging.

[45]  Darren J. Martin,et al.  The effect of formulation on the penetration of coated and uncoated zinc oxide nanoparticles into the viable epidermis of human skin in vivo. , 2013, European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics : official journal of Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur Pharmazeutische Verfahrenstechnik e.V.

[46]  M. Roberts,et al.  An Integrated Pharmacokinetic and Imaging Evaluation of Vehicle Effects on Solute Human Epidermal Flux and, Retention Characteristics , 2007, Pharmaceutical Research.

[47]  Jie Wang,et al.  Determination of Whiteners in Cosmetics by Microdialysis and High-Performance Liquid Chromatography , 2015 .

[48]  R. Bronaugh,et al.  Methods for in vitro percutaneous absorption studies IV: The flow-through diffusion cell. , 1985, Journal of pharmaceutical sciences.

[49]  T. Franz Percutaneous absorption on the relevance of in vitro data. , 1975, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[50]  H. Maibach,et al.  Regional variation in percutaneous absorption in man: measurement by the stripping method , 2004, Archives of Dermatological Research.

[51]  H. Tagami,et al.  Number of cell layers of the stratum corneum in normal skin – relationship to the anatomical location on the body, age, sex and physical parameters , 1999, Archives of Dermatological Research.

[52]  I. H. Blank,et al.  Further observations on factors which influence the water content of the stratum corneum. , 1953, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[53]  G. Nilsson,et al.  Comparison of tissue viability imaging and colorimetry: skin blanching , 2009, Skin research and technology : official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging.

[54]  S. Harrad,et al.  Evaluation of 3D-human skin equivalents for assessment of human dermal absorption of some brominated flame retardants. , 2015, Environment international.

[55]  S. Benita,et al.  Influence of Emulsion Droplet Surface Charge on Indomethacin Ocular Tissue Distribution , 2000, Pharmaceutical development and technology.

[56]  H I Maibach,et al.  Stratum corneum adhesive tape stripping: influence of anatomical site, application pressure, duration and removal , 2004, The British journal of dermatology.

[57]  P. Agache,et al.  A new technique for the evaluation of cosmetics effect on mechanical properties of stratum corneum and epidermis in vitro , 1986, International journal of cosmetic science.

[58]  Eric W. Smith,et al.  The selection and use of natural and synthetic membranes for in vitro diffusion experiments , 1994 .

[59]  H. Maibach,et al.  The hairless rat: a relevant animal model to predict in vivo percutaneous absorption in humans? , 1987, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[60]  K. Sugibayashi,et al.  Usefulness of rat skin as a substitute for human skin in the in vitro skin permeation study. , 2011, Experimental animals.

[61]  J. Serup,et al.  Cutaneous microdialysis in man: effects of needle insertion trauma and anaesthesia on skin perfusion, erythema and skin thickness. , 1998, Acta dermato-venereologica.

[62]  Mads Kreilgaard,et al.  Assessment of cutaneous drug delivery using microdialysis. , 2002, Advanced drug delivery reviews.

[63]  S. Kitagawa,et al.  Enhancement effects of double-chained cationic surfactants of n-dimethyldialkylammoniums on permeability of salicylate through guinea pig dorsal skin. , 2002, Chemical & pharmaceutical bulletin.

[64]  Jelena Filipović-Grčić,et al.  In vitro skin models as a tool in optimization of drug formulation. , 2015, European journal of pharmaceutical sciences : official journal of the European Federation for Pharmaceutical Sciences.

[65]  Véronique Préat,et al.  In Vivo Methods for the Assessment of Topical Drug Bioavailability , 2007, Pharmaceutical Research.

[66]  M. Herlyn,et al.  The Three-Dimensional Human Skin Reconstruct Model: a Tool to Study Normal Skin and Melanoma Progression , 2011, Journal of visualized experiments : JoVE.

[67]  Tarl W Prow,et al.  Nanocomposite‐Strengthened Dissolving Microneedles for Improved Transdermal Delivery to Human Skin , 2014, Advanced healthcare materials.

[68]  T. Franz,et al.  Percutaneous Absorption in Man: In vitro-in vivo Correlation , 2011, Skin Pharmacology and Physiology.

[69]  R. Guy,et al.  Optimizing Metrics for the Assessment of Bioequivalence Between Topical Drug Products , 2008, Pharmaceutical Research.

[70]  B. Baroli,et al.  Penetration of nanoparticles and nanomaterials in the skin: fiction or reality? , 2010, Journal of pharmaceutical sciences.

[71]  Kenneth T. Bogen,et al.  Dermal Absorption of Dilute Aqueous Chloroform, Trichloroethylene, and Tetrachloroethylene in Hairless Guinea Pigs , 1992 .

[72]  P. Matts,et al.  Comparison of gravimetric and spectroscopic approaches to quantify stratum corneum removed by tape-stripping. , 2012, European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics : official journal of Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur Pharmazeutische Verfahrenstechnik e.V.

[73]  R. Stoughton,et al.  Method for Comparing Percutaneous Absorption of Steroids , 1962 .

[74]  H. Höltje,et al.  Glucocorticoids for Human Skin: New Aspects of the Mechanism of Action , 2005, Skin Pharmacology and Physiology.

[75]  A. Herman Caffeine’s Mechanisms of Action and Its Cosmetic Use , 2012, Skin Pharmacology and Physiology.

[76]  P. Paronen,et al.  Dodecyl N,N-Dimethylamino Acetate and Azone Enhance Drug Penetration Across Human, Snake, and Rabbit Skin , 1991, Pharmaceutical Research.

[77]  David R. Friend,et al.  In vitro skin permeation techniques , 1992 .

[78]  A. Mavon,et al.  In vitro and in vivo dermal absorption assessment of acetyl aspartic acid: a compartmental study , 2015, International journal of cosmetic science.

[79]  R. Bronaugh,et al.  Reduction of azo dyes during in vitro percutaneous absorption. , 1993, Toxicology and applied pharmacology.

[80]  C. Reijnders,et al.  Development of a Full-Thickness Human Skin Equivalent In Vitro Model Derived from TERT-Immortalized Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts , 2015, Tissue engineering. Part A.

[81]  B. W. Barry,et al.  Shed snake skin and hairless mouse skin as model membranes for human skin during permeation studies. , 1990, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[82]  J. H. Rytting,et al.  Use of Shed Snake Skin as a Model Membrane for in Vitro Percutaneous Penetration Studies: Comparison with Human Skin , 1990, Pharmaceutical Research.

[83]  A. Billich,et al.  Comparison of human skin or epidermis models with human and animal skin in in-vitro percutaneous absorption. , 2001, International journal of pharmaceutics.

[84]  H. Maibach,et al.  Utility of real time breath analysis and physiologically based pharmacokinetic modeling to determine the percutaneous absorption of methyl chloroform in rats and humans. , 2000, Toxicological sciences : an official journal of the Society of Toxicology.

[85]  Claus-Michael Lehr,et al.  Human skin penetration of flufenamic acid: in vivo/in vitro correlation (deeper skin layers) for skin samples from the same subject. , 2002, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[86]  P. Wertz,et al.  The human epidermis models EpiSkin, SkinEthic and EpiDerm: an evaluation of morphology and their suitability for testing phototoxicity, irritancy, corrosivity, and substance transport. , 2005, European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics : official journal of Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur Pharmazeutische Verfahrenstechnik e.V.

[87]  T. Dalla Costa,et al.  Role of Microdialysis in Pharmacokinetics and Pharmacodynamics: Current Status and Future Directions , 2014, Clinical Pharmacokinetics.

[88]  G. S. Hawkins,et al.  Influence of skin source, penetration cell fluid, and partition coefficient on in vitro skin penetration. , 1986, Journal of pharmaceutical sciences.

[89]  Biana Godin,et al.  Ethosomes: new prospects in transdermal delivery. , 2003, Critical reviews in therapeutic drug carrier systems.

[90]  G. Burch,et al.  DIFFERENTIAL ROLES OF LAYERS OF HUMAN EPIGASTRIC SKIN ON DIFFUSION RATE OF WATER , 1944 .

[91]  S. R. Shaw,et al.  Percutaneous absorption and excretion of tritium-labeled diflorasone diacetate, a new topical corticosteroid in the rat, monkey and man. , 1978, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[92]  Gabriel Wittum,et al.  In-silico model of skin penetration based on experimentally determined input parameters. Part I: experimental determination of partition and diffusion coefficients. , 2008, European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics : official journal of Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur Pharmazeutische Verfahrenstechnik e.V.

[93]  Claus-Michael Lehr,et al.  Drug Distribution in Human Skin Using Two Different In Vitro Test Systems: Comparison with In Vivo Data , 2000, Pharmaceutical Research.

[94]  P. Matts,et al.  In Vitro–In Vivo Correlation in Skin Permeation , 2013, Pharmaceutical Research.

[95]  K. Parsa,et al.  A new three-component reaction: green synthesis of novel isoindolo[2,1-a]quinazoline derivatives as potent inhibitors of TNF-α. , 2011, Chemical communications.

[96]  R. Scheuplein Analysis of permeability data for the case of parallel diffusion pathways. , 1966, Biophysical journal.

[97]  Alka Lohani,et al.  Nanotechnology-Based Cosmeceuticals , 2014, ISRN dermatology.

[98]  H Frederick Frasch,et al.  Pig and guinea pig skin as surrogates for human in vitro penetration studies: a quantitative review. , 2009, Toxicology in vitro : an international journal published in association with BIBRA.

[99]  C. Dong,et al.  Visualizing laser-skin interaction in vivo by multiphoton microscopy. , 2009, Journal of biomedical optics.

[100]  Valérie Zuang,et al.  Alternative (non-animal) methods for cosmetics testing: current status and future prospects—2010 , 2011, Archives of Toxicology.

[101]  Bernard Testa,et al.  Quantitative Structure-Permeation Relationships (QSPeRs) to Predict Skin Permeation: A Critical Evaluation , 2004, Pharmaceutical Research.

[102]  C. Sinico,et al.  Newborn pig skin as model membrane in in vitro drug permeation studies: A technical note , 2007, AAPS PharmSciTech.

[103]  N. Kollias,et al.  Water‐Holding and Transport Properties of Skin Stratum Corneum of Infants and Toddlers Are Different from Those of Adults: Studies in Three Geographical Regions and Four Ethnic Groups , 2016, Pediatric dermatology.

[104]  J. Brandner,et al.  The skin: an indispensable barrier , 2008, Experimental dermatology.

[105]  A. Nokhodchi,et al.  Enhancement of percutaneous absorption of Finasteride by cosolvents, cosurfactant and surfactants , 2010, Pharmaceutical development and technology.

[106]  K. Sugibayashi,et al.  Mathematical Model to Predict Skin Concentration after Topical Application of Drugs , 2013, Pharmaceutics.

[107]  Jim E Riviere,et al.  Predicting skin permeability from complex vehicles. , 2013, Advanced drug delivery reviews.

[108]  Juergen Lademann,et al.  Porcine ear skin: an in vitro model for human skin , 2007, Skin research and technology : official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging.

[109]  C. Valenta,et al.  Importance of a suitable working protocol for tape stripping experiments on porcine ear skin: Influence of lipophilic formulations and strip adhesion impairment. , 2015, International journal of pharmaceutics.

[110]  Eva Benfeldt,et al.  Percutaneous penetration--methodological considerations. , 2014, Basic & clinical pharmacology & toxicology.

[111]  J Lademann,et al.  The tape stripping procedure--evaluation of some critical parameters. , 2009, European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics : official journal of Arbeitsgemeinschaft fur Pharmazeutische Verfahrenstechnik e.V.

[112]  W. Navidi,et al.  Determining bioequivalence of topical dermatological drug products by tape-stripping , 2008, Journal of Pharmacokinetics and Pharmacodynamics.

[113]  Jonathan Hadgraft,et al.  Pig Ear Skin ex Vivo as a Model for in Vivo Dermatopharmacokinetic Studies in Man , 2006, Pharmaceutical Research.

[114]  Adrian C. Williams,et al.  Can drug‐bearing liposomes penetrate intact skin? , 2006, The Journal of pharmacy and pharmacology.

[115]  U. Ungerstedt,et al.  Microdialysis—principles and applications for studies in animals and man , 1991, Journal of internal medicine.

[116]  G. Flynn,et al.  Transdermal Delivery of Narcotic Analgesics: pH, Anatomical, and Subject Influences on Cutaneous Permeability of Fentanyl and Sufentanil , 1990, Pharmaceutical Research.