Mechanics of bottom sediment movement due to wave action

Chapter I Introduction a) Statement of problem b) Historical review of theories of motion of sediment 1. In! tial and general motion 2. Formation of ripples 3. Motion of sediment due to surface ~oJaves Chap·ter II 'lheoretical Considerations Part I: Motion of surface waves and flow in botmdary l ayer at the bottan Page

[1]  W. Bucher.  On ripples and related sedimentary surface forms and their paleogeographic interpretation; Part II , 1919 .

[2]  R. Bagnold,et al.  Motion of waves in shallow water. Interaction between waves and sand bottoms , 1946, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences.