Physical Mechanisms of the Rogue Wave Phenomenon

A review of physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon is given. The data of marine observations as well as laboratory experiments are briefly discussed. They demonstrate that freak waves may appear in deep and shallow waters. Simple statistical analysis of the rogue wave probability based on the assumption of a Gaussian wave field is reproduced. In the context of water wave theories the probabilistic approach shows that numerical simulations of freak waves should be made for very long times on large spatial domains and large number of realizations. As linear models of freak waves the following mechanisms are considered: dispersion enhancement of transient wave groups, geometrical focusing in basins of variable depth, and wave-current interaction. Taking into account nonlinearity of the water waves, these mechanisms remain valid but should be modified. Also, the influence of the nonlinear modulational instability (Benjamin–Feir instability) on the rogue wave occurence is discussed. Specific numerical simulations were performed in the framework of classical nonlinear evolution equations: the nonlinear Schrodinger equation, the Davey–Stewartson system, the Korteweg–de Vries equation, the Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation, the Zakharov equation, and the fully nonlinear potential equations. Their results show the main features of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon.

[1]  I. E. Alber,et al.  The effects of randomness on the stability of two-dimensional surface wavetrains , 1978, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[2]  Jerry L. Bona,et al.  Dispersive Blowup of Solutions of Generalized Korteweg-de Vries Equations , 1993 .

[3]  D. H. Peregrine,et al.  Interaction of Water Waves and Currents , 1976 .

[4]  Spatial versions of the Zakharov and Dysthe evolution equations for deep-water gravity waves , 2002, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[5]  Chuan-Sheng Liu,et al.  Solitons in nonuniform media , 1976 .

[6]  Miguel Onorato,et al.  The nonlinear dynamics of rogue waves and holes in deep-water gravity wave trains , 2000 .

[7]  Eliezer Kit,et al.  Experiments on Nonlinear Wave Groups in Intermediate Water Depth , 1998 .

[8]  V. Klyatskin Caustics in random media , 1993 .

[9]  I. Lavrenov,et al.  The Wave Energy Concentration at the Agulhas Current off South Africa , 1998 .

[10]  Riccardo Codiglia,et al.  Nonlinear effects in 2D transient nonbreaking waves in a closed flume , 2001 .

[11]  Michael G. Brown The Maslov integral representation of slowly varying dispersive wavetrains in inhomogeneous moving media , 2000 .

[12]  E. Pelinovsky,et al.  Distribution Functions of Tsunami Wave Heights , 2002 .

[13]  M. S. Longuet-Higgins,et al.  Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves , 1986, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[14]  Karsten Trulsen,et al.  NOTE ON BREATHER TYPE SOLUTIONS OF THE NLS AS MODELS FOR FREAK-WAVES , 1999 .

[15]  Andrey Kurkin,et al.  Nonlinear mechanism of tsunami wave generation by atmospheric disturbances , 2001 .

[16]  Peter A. E. M. Janssen,et al.  Nonlinear Four-Wave Interactions and Freak Waves , 2003 .

[17]  John Grue,et al.  A fast method for fully nonlinear water-wave computations , 2001, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[18]  Dick K. P. Yue,et al.  A high-order spectral method for the study of nonlinear gravity waves , 1987, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[19]  Günther Clauss,et al.  Task-related wave groups for seakeeping tests or simulation of design storm waves , 1999 .

[20]  A. Osborne,et al.  Solitons, cnoidal waves and nonlinear interactions in shallow-water ocean surface waves , 1998 .

[21]  K. Dysthe,et al.  Note on a modification to the nonlinear Schrödinger equation for application to deep water waves , 1979, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[22]  Karsten Trulsen Simulating the spatial evolution of a measured time series of a freak wave , 2000 .

[23]  Nobuhito Mori,et al.  Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan , 2002 .

[24]  C. Swan,et al.  Nonlinear transient water waves—part I. A numerical method of computation with comparisons to 2-D laboratory data , 1997 .

[25]  Karsten Trulsen,et al.  A modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation for broader bandwidth gravity waves on deep water , 1996 .

[26]  Schober,et al.  Numerical chaos, roundoff errors, and homoclinic manifolds. , 1993, Physical review letters.

[27]  S. F. Smith,et al.  Extreme two-dimensional water waves: an assessment of potential design solutions , 2002 .

[28]  D. H. Peregrine,et al.  Water waves, nonlinear Schrödinger equations and their solutions , 1983, The Journal of the Australian Mathematical Society. Series B. Applied Mathematics.

[29]  S. P. Kjeldsen,et al.  FREAK WAVE KINEMATICS , 1989 .

[30]  Stanisław Ryszard Massel,et al.  Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction , 1996 .

[31]  Junkichi Satsuma,et al.  N-Soliton Solution of the Two-Dimensional Korteweg-deVries Equation , 1976 .

[32]  R. S. Johnson A Modern Introduction to the Mathematical Theory of Water Waves: The equations for a viscous fluid , 1997 .

[34]  John W. Miles,et al.  Resonantly interacting solitary waves , 1977, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[35]  G. G. Stokes "J." , 1890, The New Yale Book of Quotations.

[36]  Yingchao Xie Exact solutions for stochastic KdV equations , 2003 .

[37]  A. Debussche,et al.  Numerical simulation of focusing stochastic nonlinear Schrödinger equations , 2002 .

[38]  D. Peregrine,et al.  Nonlinear effects upon waves near caustics , 1979, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[39]  Hammack,et al.  Modulated periodic stokes waves in deep water , 2000, Physical review letters.

[40]  J. Satsuma,et al.  B Initial Value Problems of One-Dimensional self-Modulation of Nonlinear Waves in Dispersive Media (Part V. Initial Value Problems) , 1975 .

[41]  W. D. Evans,et al.  PARTIAL DIFFERENTIAL EQUATIONS , 1941 .

[42]  M. J. Lighthill,et al.  Contributions to the Theory of Waves in Non-linear Dispersive Systems , 1965 .

[43]  O. Andersen,et al.  Freak Waves: Rare Realizations of a Typical Population Or Typical Realizations of a Rare Population? , 2000 .

[44]  Formation de vagues géantes en eau peu profonde , 2000 .

[45]  J. Grue On four highly nonlinear phenomena in wave theory and marine hydrodynamics , 2002 .

[46]  A. Osborne,et al.  Freak waves in random oceanic sea states. , 2001, Physical review letters.

[47]  Ove T. Gudmestad,et al.  Water wave kinematics , 1990 .

[48]  Annalisa Calini,et al.  Homoclinic chaos increases the likelihood of rogue wave formation , 2002 .

[49]  Nobuhito Mori,et al.  Effects of high-order nonlinear interactions on unidirectional wave trains , 2002 .

[50]  Vladimir P. Krasitskii,et al.  On reduced equations in the Hamiltonian theory of weakly nonlinear surface waves , 1994, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[51]  Günther Clauss,et al.  Dramas of the sea: episodic waves and their impact on offshore structures , 2002 .

[52]  D. Anker,et al.  On the soliton solutions of the Davey-Stewartson equation for long waves , 1978, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. A. Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[53]  C. Swan,et al.  On the calculation of the water particle kinematics arising in a directionally spread wavefield , 2003 .

[54]  Ablowitz,et al.  Numerically induced chaos in the nonlinear Schrödinger equation. , 1989, Physical review letters.

[55]  Roger Grimshaw,et al.  Water Waves , 2021, Mathematics of Wave Propagation.

[56]  Günther Clauss,et al.  Gaussian wave packets — a new approach to seakeeping testsof ocean structures* , 1986 .

[57]  Vladimir E. Zakharov,et al.  Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid , 1968 .

[58]  V. Matveev Positons: Slowly Decreasing Analogues of Solitons , 2002 .

[59]  Miguel Onorato,et al.  Extreme wave events in directional, random oceanic sea states , 2001, nlin/0106004.

[60]  C. Brandini Evolution of three-dimensional unsteady wave modulations , 2001 .

[61]  E. Pelinovsky,et al.  Nonlinear wave focusing on water of finite depth , 2002 .

[62]  J. Dold,et al.  Unsteady water wave modulations: fully nonlinear solutions and comparison with the nonlinear Schrodinger equation , 1999 .

[63]  C. Swan,et al.  On the efficient numerical simulation of directionally spread surface water waves , 2001 .

[64]  Karsten Trulsen,et al.  Evolution of a narrow-band spectrum of random surface gravity waves , 2003, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[65]  Vladimir I. Arnold,et al.  Singularities of Caustics and Wave Fronts , 1990 .

[66]  Tom E. Baldock,et al.  Extreme waves in shallow and intermediate water depths , 1996 .

[67]  Michael G. Brown Space–time surface gravity wave caustics: structurally stable extreme wave events , 2001 .

[68]  G. M. Zaslavskii,et al.  Chaos and dynamics of rays in waveguide media , 1993 .

[69]  Mark A. Donelan,et al.  Expected Structure of Extreme Waves in a Gaussian Sea. Part I: Theory and SWADE Buoy Measurements , 1993 .

[70]  Eliezer Kit,et al.  Evolution of a nonlinear wave field along a tank: experiments and numerical simulations based on the spatial Zakharov equation , 2001, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[71]  Chiang C. Mei,et al.  A numerical study of water-wave modulation based on a higher-order nonlinear Schrödinger equation , 1985, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[72]  E. Pelinovsky,et al.  Nonlinear-dispersive mechanism of the freak wave formation in shallow water , 2000 .

[73]  V. Zakharov,et al.  New method for numerical simulation of a nonstationary potential flow of incompressible fluid with a free surface , 2002 .

[74]  A general theory of three-dimensional wave groups Part I: The formal derivation , 1997 .

[75]  Bengt Fornberg,et al.  On the chance of freak waves at sea , 1998, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[76]  C. Swan,et al.  A laboratory study of the focusing of transient and directionally spread surface water waves , 2001, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences.

[77]  Karsten Trulsen,et al.  On weakly nonlinear modulation of waves on deep water , 2000 .

[78]  J. Azaïs,et al.  Asymptotic Expansions for the Distribution of the Maximum of Gaussian Random Fields , 2002 .

[79]  M. Ablowitz,et al.  Long-time dynamics of the modulational instability of deep water waves , 2001 .

[80]  Davide Carlo Ambrosi,et al.  Interaction of two quasi-monochromatic waves in shallow water , 2002, nlin/0210038.

[81]  T. Soomere,et al.  Soliton interaction as a possible model for extreme waves in shallow water , 2003 .

[82]  Focusing of edge waves above a sloping beach , 2002 .

[83]  D. Peregrine Wave jumps and caustics in the propagation of finite-amplitude water waves , 1983, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[84]  E. Pelinovsky,et al.  Focusing of nonlinear wave groups in deep water , 2001 .

[85]  Mark A. Donelan,et al.  On estimating extremes in an evolving wave field , 1999 .

[86]  John W. Dold,et al.  An efficient surface-integral algorithm applied to unsteady gravity waves , 1992 .

[87]  Frédéric Dias,et al.  NONLINEAR GRAVITY AND CAPILLARY-GRAVITY WAVES , 1999 .

[88]  E. Pelinovsky,et al.  Nonlinear Wave Group Evolution in Shallow Water , 2000 .

[89]  Walter Craig,et al.  Numerical simulation of gravity waves , 1993 .

[90]  Lev Shemer,et al.  On modifications of the Zakharov equation for surface gravity waves , 1984, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[91]  Emma Young Monsters of the deep , 2003 .

[92]  M. Brown,et al.  Experiments on focusing unidirectional water waves , 2001 .

[93]  C. C. Tung,et al.  Reflection of oblique waves by currents: analytical solutions and their application to numerical computations , 1999, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[94]  Kenji Ohkuma,et al.  The Kadomtsev-Petviashvili Equation: the Trace Method and the Soliton Resonances , 1983 .