Influence of Steep Seabed Slopes on Breaking Waves for Structure Design

Prediction of limiting wave heights in conditions of depth-induced breaking is subject to considerable uncertainties, yet the (local) wave height is probably the most important input variable in design of coastal, harbour or shoreline structures subject to wave action. This paper presents selected results from laboratory experiments to measure depthlimited wave breaking over steep bed slopes (1:50, 30, 20, and 1:10) in fully random wave conditions. Experimental measurements are compared with predictions for H,ms, Hs and Hmax under shoaling and breaking. The effects of shoaling and breaking on the wave height distributions are explored. An alternative empirical method to predict Hlfl and Hmax is suggested.