Patternmaking for the underwired bra: New directions

Abstract This article considers the history of patternmaking, the evolution of flat patternmaking, and brassiere patternmaking. The literature related to patternmaking for the brassiere and the underwired brassiere is reviewed, and the author considers the secrecy currently surrounding the practice of patternmaking and the extent to which this has restricted the growth of innovative practice in this area. The effect this has had on the development, learning and teaching of patternmaking practice is reviewed, and the author presents and evaluates a new approach to bra patternmaking which marks a move away from traditional ‘copy’ methods to a single innovative approach which is practical and provides for further development of patternmaking practice in this area. This study tests the new approach against the traditional method, using industry professionals in both conditions at each of the key stages of patternmaking, cutting, sewing, and fitting. A subsequent double-blind comparison of the product and fitting revealed that experienced patternmakers and fitters were unable to distinguish which bra had been produced using the new method. Feedback from the industry professionals involved in the trial demonstrates a marked preference for the speed and simplicity of the new method.

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