Reduction of maximum tsunami run-up due to the interaction with beachfront development – application of single sinusoidal waves

Abstract. Experiments are presented that focus on the interaction of single sinusoidal long waves with beachfront development on the shore. A pump-driven methodology is applied to generate the tested waves in the wave flume. The approaching waves firstly propagate over a horizontal bottom, then climbing up a 1 in 40 beach slope. The experiments reported here are confined to the surf similarity parameter of the waves ranging from ξ =7.69–10.49. The maximum run-up of the tested waves under undisturbed conditions agrees well with analytical results of of Madsen and Schaffer (2010). Beachfront development is modelled with cubic concrete blocks (macro-roughness (MR) elements). The obstruction ratio, the number of element rows parallel to the shoreline as well as the way of arranging the MR elements influences the overall reduction of maximum run-up compared to the undisturbed run-up conditions. Staggered and aligned as well as rotated and non-rotated arrangements are tested. As a result, nomograms are finally compiled to depict the maximum run-up reduction over the surf similarity parameter. In addition, some guidance on practical application of the results to an example location is given.

[1]  Hunt,et al.  Design of Seawalls and Breakwaters , 1959 .

[2]  J. Peakall,et al.  Surface tension in small hydraulic river models - the significance of the Weber number , 1996 .

[3]  O. H. Hinsdale.  PHYSICAL MODELLING OF TSUNAMI INDUCED SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AND SCOUR , 2007 .

[4]  Harry Yeh,et al.  Maximum fluid forces in the tsunami runup zone , 2006 .

[5]  N. Goseberg.  A Laboratory Perspective of Long Wave Generation , 2012 .

[6]  Joel E. Cohen,et al.  Coastal Hazards and the Global Distribution of Human Population , 2000 .

[7]  Robert J. Nicholls,et al.  Improved estimates of coastal population and exposure to hazards released , 2002 .

[8]  C. Synolakis,et al.  The run-up of N-waves on sloping beaches , 1994, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A: Mathematical and Physical Sciences.

[9]  Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms: Part 2 , 1997 .

[10]  T. Schlurmann,et al.  INTERACTION OF IDEALIZED URBAN INFRASTRUCTURE AND LONG WAVES DURING RUN-UP AND ON-LAND FLOW PROCESS IN COASTAL REGIONS , 2012 .

[11]  葉真.  水表面波的傳播; Water Wave Propagation over Uneven Bottom , 2004 .

[12]  M. Satoh,et al.  2010 Chilean Tsunami Observed On Japanese Coast By NOWPHAS GPS Buoys, Seabed Wave Gauges And Coastal Tide Gauges , 2012 .

[13]  Nils Goseberg,et al.  NUMERICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON TSUNAMI RUN-UP AND INUNDATION INFLUENCED BY MACRO ROUGHNESS ELEMENTS , 2011 .

[14]  H. Schüttrumpf,et al.  Wellenüberlaufströmung an Seedeichen: Experimentelle und theoretische Untersuchungen , 2001 .

[15]  Per A. Madsen,et al.  Run-up of tsunamis and long waves in terms of surf-similarity , 2008 .

[16]  Hermann M. Fritz,et al.  2004 Indian Ocean tsunami flow velocity measurements from survivor videos , 2006 .

[17]  Fredric Raichlen,et al.  Forces on Vertical Wall Caused by Incident Bores , 1990 .

[18]  Nils Goseberg,et al.  Laboratory-scale generation of tsunami and long waves , 2013 .

[19]  M. Selim Yalin,et al.  Theory of hydraulic models , 1971 .

[20]  Hermann M. Fritz,et al.  The 2011 Japan tsunami current velocity measurements from survivor videos at Kesennuma Bay using LiDAR , 2012 .

[21]  Takashi Tomita,et al.  APPLICATION OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL TSUNAMI SIMULATOR TO ESTIMATION OF TSUNAMI BEHAVIOR AROUND STRUCTURES , 2007 .

[22]  Propagation and Inundation Characteristics of the 2011 Tohoku Tsunami on the Central Sanriku Coast , 2012 .

[23]  Julien Lhomme,et al.  Two-dimensional shallow-water model with porosity for urban flood modelling , 2008 .

[24]  Jerald D. Ramsden,et al.  Forces on a Vertical Wall due to Long Waves, Bores, and Dry-Bed Surges , 1996 .

[25]  智明 後藤,et al.  Effects of large obstacles on tsunami inundation , 1981 .

[26]  B. Lemehaute.  An introduction to hydrodynamics and water waves , 1976 .

[27]  C. Synolakis,et al.  The Runup of Long Waves , 1986 .

[28]  N. Huang,et al.  The empirical mode decomposition and the Hilbert spectrum for nonlinear and non-stationary time series analysis , 1998, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences.

[29]  Per A. Madsen,et al.  On the solitary wave paradigm for tsunamis , 2008 .

[30]  Yves Zech,et al.  Dam-break flow through an idealised city , 2008 .

[31]  Pavel Novák,et al.  Models in hydraulic engineering : physical principles and design applications , 1981 .

[32]  Matthew Rueben,et al.  Optical measurements of tsunami inundation through an urban waterfront modeled in a large-scale labo , 2011 .

[33]  Per A. Madsen,et al.  Analytical solutions for tsunami runup on a plane beach: single waves, N-waves and transient waves , 2010, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[34]  T. Tomita,et al.  TSUNAMI INUNDATION WITH MACRO-ROUGHNESS IN THE CONSTRUCTED ENVIRONMENT , 2009 .