Identifying the Causes of the Spandex Breakage of Woven Garments and its Solutions

The aim of this research is to investigate the causes of the spandex breakage of woven garments while manufacturing and to find out their solutions.97% of cotton and 3% of spandex woven fabrics were used for making the woven garments. Woven garments of different stages like non-wash garments, garments with spandex breakage and garments without spandex breakage were used in this research for experiment. Performances of the elasticity of the spandex and its content were assessed using IR (Infrared Radiation) spectroscopy with the facilities of the FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared) instrument in agreement with ASTM E168 Standard. Diffusion of infrared radiation delineates the elastic performances and its content on the garments with the standard specified in ASTM E168.Spandex portion of the denim garments has a tendency to go inside just after cutting since in this stage yarns do not have any tension. Sewing needle cut the yarns during stitching. The more the stitch per inch is, the more the spandex breakage is. Temperature of the needle increases while stitching and this increased temperature spoils the spandex portion by melting inside it. Higher temperature from dyeing bath spoils the spandex portion of the woven garments. Insufficient sewing allowance, incorrect sewing needle, improper machine tension, scrapping on garments, access temperature all the things were the cause of the spandex damage of the elastic garments.Using of special ball point needle, using of rotary knife while cutting, avoidance of using hot gun, avoiding chlorine bleach and stone wash, using of low temperature ironing, using of dummy while scrapping and all other steps mentioned in the research can be applied practically to overcome spandex breakage of garments.Due to having poor facilities of the testing laboratories only a few experiments with FTIR test were carried out in this research.This research is practiced based and the findings can be beneficial to the personnel involved in the textile industries who are responsible for the manufacture of spandex garments and to control of their properties. This research opened possible ways for the scholar to further study in this field.

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