Doppler radar measurements of wave groups and breaking waves

A 3-GHz Doppler radar has been used to study wave dynamics and backscatter from the sea surface at low grazing angles. Vertical polarization results are dominated by Bragg scatter even at low (∼8°) grazing angles. Horizontal polarization results, however, show a strong upwind-downwind asymmetry with additional, high-velocity intermittent scatter in the upwind direction associated with steep or breaking waves. These characteristics have been exploited to distinguish spilling breaking events from the background Bragg scatter. While these “spikes” at a single range may appear random in time, the combined range and time information reveals a well-determined propagation pattern. It is shown that for a developing sea in deep water, group behavior modulates the occurrence of wave breaking. The frequency-wavenumber spectrum shows a clear separation between the linear dispersion curve and nonlinear effects related to breaking. The most important nonlinear feature is a line near the dominant wave group velocity which is identified with the spectrum of breaking intermittency. The slope of this line suggests that the wave components which are most likely to break lie at frequencies significantly above the dominant wave frequency.