High-resolution wave and hydrodynamics modelling in coastal areas:operational applications for coastal planning, decision support andassessment

Abstract. Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning, decision support and risk assessment. High-resolution modelling offers an extensive range of capabilities regarding simulated conditions, works and practices and provides with a wide array of data regarding nearshore wave dynamics and hydrodynamics. In the present work, the open-source TELEMAC suite and the commercial software MIKE21 are applied to selected coastal areas of South Italy. Applications follow a scenario-based approach in order to study representative wave conditions in the coastal field; the models' results are intercompared in order to test both their performance and capabilities and are further evaluated on the basis of their operational use for coastal planning and design. A multiparametric approach for the rapid assessment of wave conditions in coastal areas is also presented and implemented in areas of the same region. The overall approach is deemed to provide useful insights on the tested models and the use of numerical models – in general – in the above context, especially considering that the design of harbours, coastal protection works and management practices in the coastal zone is based on scenario-based approaches as well.

[1]  Rebekka Kopmann,et al.  Morphodynamic modeling using the Telemac finite-element system , 2013, Comput. Geosci..

[2]  Esin Çevik,et al.  Estimation of wave parameters based on nearshore wind-wave correlations , 2013 .

[3]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  Parameterisation of Triad Interactions in Wave Energy Models , 1996 .

[4]  C. Soares,et al.  Modelling tidal currents on the coast of Portugal , 2000 .

[5]  D. Porter,et al.  The mild-slope equations , 2003, Journal of Fluid Mechanics.

[6]  Michel Benoit,et al.  Non-linear propagation of unidirectional wave fields over varying topography , 1999 .

[7]  Delft Hydraulics,et al.  Nourishing the shoreface: observations and hindcasting of the Egmond case, The Netherlands , 2004 .

[8]  R. He,et al.  Development of a Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) Modeling System , 2010 .

[9]  M. T. Babu,et al.  Modelling tide-driven currents and residual eddies in the Gulf of Kachchh and their seasonal variability: A marine environmental planning perspective , 2005 .

[10]  Nico Booij,et al.  Phase-decoupled refraction¿diffraction for spectral wave models , 2003 .

[11]  N. Booij,et al.  A third-generation wave model for coastal regions-1 , 1999 .

[12]  Javier L. Lara,et al.  Upgrade of coastal defence structures against increased loadings caused by climate change: A first m , 2014 .

[13]  N. Plant,et al.  A probabilistic method for constructing wave time-series at inshore locations using model scenarios , 2014 .

[14]  J. Hervouet Hydrodynamics of Free Surface Flows: Modelling with the Finite Element Method , 2007 .

[15]  Peter N. Adams,et al.  Development of the Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) for predicting the impact of storms on high-energy, active-margin coasts , 2014, Natural Hazards.

[16]  Magnus Larson,et al.  Shoreline response to a single shore-parallel submerged breakwater , 2010 .

[17]  Nathaniel G. Plant,et al.  Prediction and assimilation of surf-zone processes using a Bayesian network , 2011 .

[18]  J. Bidlot,et al.  User manual and system documentation of WAVEWATCH III R version 4.18 , 2014 .

[19]  Jérémy Rohmer,et al.  Development of an inverse method for coastal risk management , 2013 .

[20]  N. Plant,et al.  Prediction and Assimilation of Surf-zone Processes using a Bayesian Network. Part I: Forward Models , 2011 .

[21]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES , 1978 .

[22]  G. Stelling,et al.  Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model , 2004 .

[23]  D. Huntley,et al.  Coupling video imaging and numerical modelling for the study of inlet morphodynamics , 2007 .

[24]  C Guedes Soares,et al.  Local data assimilation scheme for wave predictions close to the Portuguese ports , 2014 .

[25]  Françoise Becq Extension de la modelisation spectrale des etats de mer vers le domaine cotier , 1998 .

[26]  Modelling of climate change impacts on coastal flooding/erosion, ports and coastal defence structures , 2015 .

[27]  Theofanis V. Karambas,et al.  Soft shore protection methods: The use of advanced numerical models in the evaluation of beach nourishment , 2014 .

[28]  Jennifer M. Brown,et al.  Methods for medium-term prediction of the net sediment transport by waves and currents in complex coastal regions , 2009 .

[29]  James T Liu,et al.  Wave–current interaction in a river and wave dominant estuary: A seasonal contrast , 2015 .

[30]  Luigi Cavaleri,et al.  Modelling waves at Orkney coastal locations , 2012 .

[31]  Paula Camus,et al.  Analysis of clustering and selection algorithms for the study of multivariate wave climate , 2011 .

[32]  J. Berkhoff,et al.  Computation of Combined Refraction — Diffraction , 1972 .

[33]  Renata Archetti,et al.  Wave electricity production in Italian offshore: A preliminary investigation , 2014 .

[34]  Xiang-peng Kong A numerical study on the impact of tidal waves on the storm surge in the north of Liaodong Bay , 2014, Acta Oceanologica Sinica.

[35]  R. Guza,et al.  A comparison of two spectral wave models in the Southern California Bight , 1993 .

[36]  J. A. Battjes,et al.  Energy loss and set-up due to breaking random waves , 1978 .

[37]  P. Janssen Quasi-linear Theory of Wind-Wave Generation Applied to Wave Forecasting , 1991 .

[38]  C. Briere,et al.  Assessment of TELEMAC system performances, a hydrodynamic case study of Anglet, France , 2007 .

[39]  K. Hasselmann,et al.  On the Existence of a Fully Developed Wind-Sea Spectrum , 1984 .

[40]  Nathaniel G. Plant,et al.  National assessment of hurricane-induced coastal erosion hazards--Gulf of Mexico , 2012 .

[41]  P. Vethamony,et al.  Spectral characteristics of the nearshore waves off Paradip, India during monsoon and extreme events , 2009 .

[42]  T. Barnett,et al.  Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) , 1973 .

[43]  Pedro Osuna,et al.  A coupling module for tides, surges and waves , 2000 .

[44]  Renata Archetti,et al.  A coupled wave–3-D hydrodynamics model of the Taranto Sea (Italy): amultiple-nesting approach , 2016 .

[45]  E. Kreyszig,et al.  Advanced Engineering Mathematics. , 1974 .

[46]  Jing Luo,et al.  Numerical modelling of hydrodynamics and sand transport in the tide-dominated coastal-to-estuarine region , 2013 .

[47]  John C. Warner,et al.  Development of a three-dimensional, regional, coupled wave, current, and sediment-transport model , 2008, Comput. Geosci..

[48]  Renata Archetti,et al.  Optimal index related to the shoreline dynamics during a storm: the case of Jesolo beach , 2015 .

[49]  Gordon Reikard,et al.  Forecasting ocean wave energy: Tests of time-series models , 2009 .

[50]  J. Ge,et al.  An integrated East China Sea–Changjiang Estuary model system with aim at resolving multi-scale regional–shelf–estuarine dynamics , 2013, Ocean Dynamics.