Improvement in the Fabric Hand of Polyester Textured-Yarn-Weave

In order to improve the hand of polyester textured-yarn-weave, the effects of fibre crimp and fabric finishing conditions on the fabric hand are surveyed by means of the objective hand-evaluation method.The yarn having fibres of finer crimp has higher torsional stiffness and this leads higher resistance against the rotation of the cross-over angle of warp and weft yarns.And this effect increases the shear stiffness of fabric and results higher“KOSHI”of fabric hand.The width adjustment at the final stage of finishing process also effects on the KOSHI;the wider set of fabric width leads higher KOSHI.The“NUMERI”hand of the textured-yarn-weave is not improved by both fibre crimp level and finishing conditions and still low.In this stage, it is difficult to improve the NUMERI by means of fibre crimp and finishing conditions.“FUKURAMI”hand may be controlled by the width set at the final finishing set but is insufficient.The finer fibre crimp increases FUKURAMI but the crimp-recovery ability of such fibres is poor at the finishing and this poor recovery decreases FUKURAMI.These both effects on the FUKURAMI hand compensate each other and, as the result, the FUKURAMI of the textured-yarn-weave is still lower compared with that of wool fabrics.For further improvement in the hand of textured-yarn-weave it should be made at first to increase the FUKURAMI hand by eliminating this compensation effect.