The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state.

The primary function of the skin is to protect the body for unwanted influences from the environment. The main barrier of the skin is located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions. As most drugs applied onto the skin permeate along the lipid domains, the lipid organization is considered to be very important for the skin barrier function. It is for this reason that the lipid organization has been investigated quite extensively. Due to the exceptional stratum corneum lipid composition, with long chain ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol as main lipid classes, the lipid organization is different from that of other biological membranes. In stratum corneum, two lamellar phases are present with repeat distances of approximately 6 and 13 nm. Moreover the lipids in the lamellar phases form predominantly crystalline lateral phases, but most probably a subpopulation of lipids forms a liquid phase. Diseased skin is often characterized by a reduced barrier function and an altered lipid composition and organization. In order to understand the aberrant lipid organization in diseased skin, information on the relation between lipid composition and organization is crucial. However, due to its complexity and inter-individual variability, the use of native stratum corneum does not allow detailed systematic studies. To circumvent this problem, mixtures prepared with stratum corneum lipids can be used. In this paper first the lipid organization in stratum corneum of normal and diseased skin is described. Then the role the various lipid classes play in stratum corneum lipid organization and barrier function has been discussed. Finally, the information on the role various lipid classes play in lipid phase behavior has been used to interpret the changes in lipid organization and barrier properties of diseased skin.

[1]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Phase behavior of lipid mixtures based on human ceramides: coexistence of crystalline and liquid phases. , 2001, Journal of lipid research.

[2]  D. Downing,et al.  Lipid organization in pig stratum corneum. , 1995, Journal of lipid research.

[3]  I. Pascher,et al.  Molecular arrangements in sphingolipids: crystal structure of the ceramide N-(2d,3d-dihydroxyoctadecanoyl)-phytosphingosine , 1992 .

[4]  M. Iwaki,et al.  Effect of temperature on percutaneous absorption of terodiline, and relationship between penetration and fluidity of the stratum corneum lipids , 1998 .

[5]  P. Elias,et al.  Lamellar bodies as delivery systems of hydrolytic enzymes: Implications for normal and abnormal desquamation , 1992, The British journal of dermatology.

[6]  P. Elias,et al.  Skin lipids and epidermal differentiation in atopic dermatitis. , 2003, Clinics in dermatology.

[7]  A. Breathnach,et al.  Freeze-fracture replication of cells of stratum corneum of human epidermis. , 1973, Journal of anatomy.

[8]  D. Hohl,et al.  Analysis of the cornified cell envelope in lamellar ichthyosis. , 1993, Archives of dermatology.

[9]  P. Wertz,et al.  Effects of essential fatty acid deficiency on epidermal O-acylsphingolipids and transepidermal water loss in young pigs. , 1987, Biochimica et biophysica acta.

[10]  J. Brussee,et al.  The influence of alkyl-azones on the ordering of the lamellae in human stratum corneum , 1992 .

[11]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Phase behavior of stratum corneum lipid mixtures based on human ceramides: the role of natural and synthetic ceramide 1. , 2002, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[12]  K. Sandhoff,et al.  Deficiency of epidermal protein-bound omega-hydroxyceramides in atopic dermatitis. , 2002, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[13]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  A Novel in Vitro Percutaneous Penetration Model: Evaluation of Barrier Properties with P-Aminobenzoic Acid and Two of Its Derivatives , 2006, Pharmaceutical Research.

[14]  M Kawashima,et al.  Decreased level of ceramides in stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis: an etiologic factor in atopic dry skin? , 1991, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[15]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  New Aspects of the Skin Barrier Organization , 2001, Skin Pharmacology and Physiology.

[16]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Barrier characteristics of different human skin types investigated with X-ray diffraction, lipid analysis, and electron microscopy imaging. , 2000, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[17]  H. Maibach,et al.  Role of Ceramides in Barrier Function of Healthy and Diseased Skin , 2005, American journal of clinical dermatology.

[18]  A. Rawlings,et al.  Seasonal influences on stratum corneum ceramide 1 fatty acids and the influence of topical essential fatty acids , 1996, International journal of cosmetic science.

[19]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Structure of human stratum corneum as a function of temperature and hydration a wide-angle X-ray diffraction study , 1992 .

[20]  S. White,et al.  Membrane structures in normal and essential fatty acid-deficient stratum corneum: characterization by ruthenium tetroxide staining and x-ray diffraction. , 1991, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[21]  M. Ponec,et al.  Mutations of keratinocyte transglutaminase in lamellar ichthyosis , 1995, Science.

[22]  G. Imokawa,et al.  Abnormal expression of sphingomyelin acylase in atopic dermatitis: an etiologic factor for ceramide deficiency? , 1996, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[23]  G. Imokawa,et al.  High-expression of sphingomyelin deacylase is an important determinant of ceramide deficiency leading to barrier disruption in atopic dermatitis. , 2000, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[24]  D. Downing,et al.  Lipid and protein structures in the permeability barrier of mammalian epidermis. , 1992, Journal of lipid research.

[25]  T. McIntosh Organization of skin stratum corneum extracellular lamellae: diffraction evidence for asymmetric distribution of cholesterol. , 2003, Biophysical journal.

[26]  P. Wertz,et al.  Molecular models of the intercellular lipid lamellae in mammalian stratum corneum. , 1989, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[27]  F. Egberts,et al.  Cathepsin D is involved in the regulation of transglutaminase 1 and epidermal differentiation , 2004, Journal of Cell Science.

[28]  P. Wertz,et al.  Covalently bound lipids of human stratum corneum. , 1989, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[29]  H. Boddé,et al.  Visualization of diffusion pathways across the stratum corneum of native and in-vitro-reconstructed epidermis by confocal laser scanning microscopy , 2004, Archives of Dermatological Research.

[30]  T. Xiang,et al.  Permeability of acetic acid across gel and liquid-crystalline lipid bilayers conforms to free-surface-area theory. , 1997, Biophysical journal.

[31]  N. Thyresson,et al.  A study of the state of aggregation of the lipids in normal and psoriatic horny layer. , 1962, Acta dermato-venereologica.

[32]  S. Carelli,et al.  Ceramide composition of the psoriatic scale. , 1993, Biochimica et biophysica acta.

[33]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Phase behavior of stratum corneum lipids in mixed Langmuir-Blodgett monolayers. , 1996, Biophysical journal.

[34]  F. Bonte,et al.  Existence of a lipid gradient in the upper stratum corneum and its possible biological significance , 1997, Archives of Dermatological Research.

[35]  B. Forslind A domain mosaic model of the skin barrier. , 1994, Acta dermato-venereologica.

[36]  C. H. Lee,et al.  Novel mutations of the transglutaminase 1 gene in lamellar ichthyosis. , 2001, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[37]  J. Harper,et al.  Quantification of stratum corneum ceramides and lipid envelope ceramides in the hereditary ichthyoses , 1994, The British journal of dermatology.

[38]  Miss A.O. Penney (b) , 1974, The New Yale Book of Quotations.

[39]  P. Steinert,et al.  Ceramides Are Bound to Structural Proteins of the Human Foreskin Epidermal Cornified Cell Envelope* , 1998, The Journal of Biological Chemistry.

[40]  P. Wertz,et al.  New acylceramide in native and reconstructed epidermis. , 2003, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[41]  I. Pascher,et al.  Lateral packing of hydrocarbon chains. , 1978, Progress in the chemistry of fats and other lipids.

[42]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  pH, cholesterol sulfate, and fatty acids affect the stratum corneum lipid organization. , 1998, The journal of investigative dermatology. Symposium proceedings.

[43]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  The lipid organisation in the skin barrier. , 2000, Acta dermato-venereologica. Supplementum.

[44]  S. Hui,et al.  Dithionite penetration through phospholipid bilayers as a measure of defects in lipid molecular packing. , 1993, Chemistry and physics of lipids.

[45]  R O Potts,et al.  Examination of stratum corneum barrier function in vivo by infrared spectroscopy. , 1990, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[46]  R O Potts,et al.  Role of stratum corneum lipid fluidity in transdermal drug flux. , 1987, Journal of pharmaceutical sciences.

[47]  P. Wertz,et al.  Ceramide and cholesterol composition of the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis. , 1998, Acta dermato-venereologica.

[48]  D. Swartzendruber Studies of epidermal lipids using electron microscopy. , 1992, Seminars in dermatology.

[49]  P. Elias,et al.  X-ray diffraction analysis of stratum corneum membrane couplets. , 1983, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[50]  M. E. Stewart,et al.  6-Hydroxy-4-sphingenine in human epidermal ceramides. , 1994, Journal of lipid research.

[51]  M. E. Stewart,et al.  X-ray diffraction analysis of isolated skin lipids: reconstitution of intercellular lipid domains. , 1996, Biochemistry.

[52]  I. Pascher,et al.  Molecular arrangements of sphingolipids. The monolayer behaviour of ceramides. , 1977, Chemistry and physics of lipids.

[53]  P. Chong,et al.  Cholesterol and ergosterol superlattices in three-component liquid crystalline lipid bilayers as revealed by dehydroergosterol fluorescence. , 1997, Biophysical journal.

[54]  H. Junginger,et al.  Development of an optimal protocol for the ultrastructural examination of skin by transmission electron microscopy , 1997, Journal of microscopy.

[55]  P. Wertz,et al.  Presence of intact intercellular lipid lamellae in the upper layers of the stratum corneum. , 1987, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[56]  P. Elias,et al.  Membrane structural abnormalities in the stratum corneum of the autosomal recessive ichthyoses. , 1992, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[57]  R. Fölster-Holst,et al.  Impaired sphingomyelinase activity and epidermal differentiation in atopic dermatitis. , 2004, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[58]  M. Fartasch Epidermal barrier in disorders of the skin , 1997, Microscopy research and technique.

[59]  D. Downing,et al.  Lipids are covalently attached to rigid corneocyte protein envelopes existing predominantly as beta-sheets: a solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance study. , 1995, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[60]  P. Wertz,et al.  Acylglucosylceramides of pig epidermis: structure determination. , 1983, Journal of lipid research.

[61]  T. Diepgen,et al.  Disturbed extruding mechanism of lamellar bodies in dry non‐eczematous skin of atopics , 1992, The British journal of dermatology.

[62]  P. Wertz,et al.  Evidence that the corneocyte has a chemically bound lipid envelope. , 1987, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[63]  A. Breathnach Aspects of epidermal ultrastructure. , 1975, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[64]  S. White,et al.  Structure of lamellar lipid domains and corneocyte envelopes of murine stratum corneum. An X-ray diffraction study. , 1988, Biochemistry.

[65]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Lipid mixtures prepared with well-defined synthetic ceramides closely mimic the unique stratum corneum lipid phase behavior Published, JLR Papers in Press, September 8, 2005. DOI 10.1194/jlr.M500221-JLR200 , 2005, Journal of Lipid Research.

[66]  P. Elias,et al.  Stratum corneum lipids in disorders of cornification. Steroid sulfatase and cholesterol sulfate in normal desquamation and the pathogenesis of recessive X-linked ichthyosis. , 1984, The Journal of clinical investigation.

[67]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Structural investigations of human stratum corneum by small-angle X-ray scattering. , 1991, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[68]  A. Weerheim,et al.  Lipid composition of cultured human keratinocytes in relation to their differentiation. , 1988, Journal of lipid research.

[69]  J. Lévêque,et al.  Oriented structure in human stratum corneum revealed by X-ray diffraction. , 1991, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[70]  G. Imokawa,et al.  Sphingosylphosphorylcholine is upregulated in the stratum corneum of patients with atopic dermatitis Published, JLR Papers in Press, October 1, 2002. DOI 10.1194/jlr.M200225-JLR200 , 2003, Journal of Lipid Research.

[71]  P. Elias,et al.  Structural and lipid biochemical correlates of the epidermal permeability barrier. , 1991, Advances in lipid research.

[72]  A. IJzerman,et al.  Role of ceramide 1 in the molecular organization of the stratum corneum lipids. , 1998, Journal of lipid research.

[73]  E. Ginns,et al.  Epidermal Abnormalities May Distinguish Type 2 from Type 1 and Type 3 of Gaucher Disease , 1996, Pediatric Research.

[74]  Stephen,et al.  Stratum Corneum Lipids in Disorders of Comification , 2003 .

[75]  L. Kanerva,et al.  Recessive ichthyosis congenita type II , 2005, Archives of Dermatological Research.

[76]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Electron diffraction provides new information on human stratum corneum lipid organization studied in relation to depth and temperature. , 1999, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[77]  M. Denda,et al.  Cholesterol sulfate inhibits proteases that are involved in desquamation of stratum corneum. , 1998, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[78]  E. Ginns,et al.  Consequences of beta-glucocerebrosidase deficiency in epidermis. Ultrastructure and permeability barrier alterations in Gaucher disease. , 1994, The Journal of clinical investigation.

[79]  P. Elias,et al.  The biochemistry and function of stratum corneum lipids. , 1991, Advances in lipid research.

[80]  G. Imokawa,et al.  Abnormal Expression of the Novel Epidermal Enzyme, Glucosylceramide Deacylase, and the Accumulation of its Enzymatic Reaction Product, Glucosylsphingosine, in the Skin of Patients with Atopic Dermatitis , 2003, Laboratory Investigation.

[81]  H. Junginger,et al.  A Cross-Section Device To Improve Visualization of Fluorescent Probe Penetration into the Skin by Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy , 1998, Pharmaceutical Research.

[82]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  The role of ceramide composition in the lipid organisation of the skin barrier. , 1999, Biochimica et biophysica acta.

[83]  L. Norlén,et al.  Skin barrier structure and function: the single gel phase model. , 2001, The Journal of investigative dermatology.

[84]  J. Bouwstra,et al.  Phase behavior of isolated skin lipids. , 1996, Journal of lipid research.

[85]  R. Proia,et al.  Accumulation of protein‐bound epidermal glucosylceramides in β‐glucocerebrosidase deficient type 2 Gaucher mice , 1999, FEBS letters.

[86]  H. Yardley Epidermal lipids , 1987, International journal of cosmetic science.