HEDONIC AND DESCRIPTIVE SKINFEEL ANALYSIS OF TWO OLEOGELS: COMPARISON WITH OTHER TOPICAL FORMULATIONS

Oleogels are gel systems obtained with an organogelator and a hydrophobic liquid. The sensory features and acceptance of one oleogel of cholesterol (3.5 wt %) and liquid paraffin and another of sorbitan monostearate (19 wt %) and sweet almond oil were evaluated along with other products representing four categories of topical semisolid formulations. In this study, differences between the two oleogels were observed on single attributes from the pickup and appearance categories, but principal component analysis demonstrated that they have similar overall sensory profiles. Both oleogels presented sensory properties that were closer to the W/O cream than to the other tested semisolid products. Related to the hedonic analysis, the oleogels were well appreciated by the consumers, which could lead to a positive impact on patient compliance. On the basis of their sensory features, we concluded that these oleogels could be promising vehicles for topical emollient formulations. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS The results of this work allowed the sensory characterization of novel semisolid formulations and the evaluation of their potential for application as dermatological bases or cosmetic products, considering the importance of sensory features on patient compliance. The methodology used was based on standard guidelines. Besides obtaining the sensory fingerprint of the two oleogels, which is important for guiding the optimization of the studied formulations, comparison between the sensory features of other topical formulations was achieved.

[1]  Richard G. Weiss,et al.  Low Molecular Mass Gelators of Organic Liquids and the Properties of Their Gels. , 1997, Chemical reviews.

[2]  L. Verneuil,et al.  Evaluation of vaseline oil applied prior to UVB TL01 phototherapy in the treatment of psoriasis , 2005, Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine.

[3]  P. Elsner,et al.  Natural vegetable fats in the prevention of irritant contact dermatitis , 2002, Contact dermatitis.

[4]  S. Fouéré,et al.  How patients experience psoriasis: results from a European survey , 2005, Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology : JEADV.

[5]  J. Lachapelle,et al.  The management of dry skin with topical emollients – recent perspectives , 2005, Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft = Journal of the German Society of Dermatology : JDDG.

[6]  Maria de la Luz Reyes Vega,et al.  Application of Sensory Evaluation Triangle Tests for Quality Control of Liquid Antacids , 1995 .

[7]  M. Fujii,et al.  Application of an oily gel formed by hydrogenated soybean phospholipids as a percutaneous absorption-type ointment base. , 1994, Chemical & pharmaceutical bulletin.

[8]  In-Suk Lee,et al.  TERMINOLOGY DEVELOPMENT AND PANEL TRAINING FOR SENSORY EVALUATION OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS INCLUDING AQUA CREAM , 2005 .

[9]  P. Dupuy,et al.  Sensory analysis of four medical spa spring waters containing various mineral concentrations , 1999, International journal of dermatology.

[10]  I. Uemasu,et al.  Analytical and related applications of organogels , 1996 .

[11]  T. Agner,et al.  Effect of different moisturizers on SLS‐irritated human skin , 2001, Contact dermatitis.

[12]  Adriana Gámbaro,et al.  Study of sensory properties of emollients used in cosmetics and their correlation with physicochemical properties. , 2005, Journal of cosmetic science.

[13]  P. Luisi,et al.  Lecithin organogel as matrix for transdermal transport of drugs. , 1992, Journal of pharmaceutical sciences.

[14]  A. Finlay,et al.  Conjoint analysis: a novel, rigorous tool for determining patient preferences for topical antibiotic treatment for acne. A randomised controlled trial , 2006, The British journal of dermatology.

[15]  P. C. van de Kerkhof,et al.  A randomized comparison of an emollient containing skin‐related lipids with a petrolatum‐based emollient as adjunct in the treatment of chronic hand dermatitis , 2003, Contact dermatitis.

[16]  J. Nash,et al.  A toxicological review of topical exposure to white mineral oils. , 1996, Food and chemical toxicology : an international journal published for the British Industrial Biological Research Association.

[17]  Johann W. Wiechers,et al.  Skin sensory performance of individual personal care ingredients and marketed personal care products , 2000 .

[18]  A. R. Gaio,et al.  ESTIMATION OF HEDONIC RESPONSES FROM DESCRIPTIVE SKIN SENSORY DATA BY CHI-SQUARE MINIMIZATION , 2006 .

[19]  L. Hothorn,et al.  A Unified Approach to Simultaneous Rank Test Procedures in the Unbalanced One-way Layout , 2001 .

[20]  R. Black,et al.  Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries , 2002, Acta paediatrica.

[21]  M. F. Bahia,et al.  Evaluation of the physical stability of two oleogels. , 2006, International journal of pharmaceutics.

[22]  P. Piccerelle,et al.  Texture Optimization of Water‐in‐Oil Emulsions , 2004, Pharmaceutical development and technology.

[23]  U. Schnakenberg,et al.  Contents Vol. 32, 2000 , 2000, Ophthalmic Research.

[24]  M. Lóden.  Role of Topical Emollients and Moisturizers in the Treatment of Dry Skin Barrier Disorders , 2003, American journal of clinical dermatology.